very nice crank benny.The oil holes sure are big..almost oval in shape.
Would you happen to have any pics of your bottom end as im researching which holes need enlargement in the block itself.

Just some pics of the crank il use that came off a ts cup engine as set with tomei pistons and modified rods.

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  a12grunt crank1.jpg (127.77 KB)


  a12grunt crank2.jpg (117.25 KB)


  a12grunt crank3.jpg (133.80 KB)

I expected a full counterweight crank and more oval or tear drop style chamfered oil holes.
Will be nice to hear your engine when its singing.

Just putting it out there but if anyone comes across a virgin E16 crank for sale pls let me know

Hmm that TS cup crank isn't fully counterweighted either. Would seem to indicate it's really not needed.

I think, as I read it, fully counter weighting the crankshaft reduces torsion reversals and hence deflection in the crank. I doubt you'd notice a practical difference.

The fully counter weighted crank should have a better fatigue life, but that all depends on how much you're stressing it. If you're having cranks fail through fatigue then you might want to switch to a full counter weight. Otherwise don't worry about it. (In my humble opinion). If I've learned anything from being and Engineer, it's that you don't worry about it until it's a problem or not performing well enough. Too easy to waste time and resources on things that don't really matter.

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Drool.

A friend does fully counterweighted cranks for flat four VW's. They're only necessary if you rev past 7000 rpm. At that rpm the standard crank starts flexing & chewing out bearings. He's seen my Datsun cranks & says the A12 really didn't need it, but it wouldn't hurt for the A15. Never took him up on the offer. Also, anybody thats raced 6 cylinder holdens knows to use 2 harmonic balancers, or the flywheel falls off. Fully counterweighting stiffens the crank, so it stays straight at higher revs. Big Diesels use bolt on counterweights, also.