For those who dont know
2day called Daiken in Melb. who said Summa auto parts in Pascoe Vale sell the R169HD clutch. Called them and rushed over with the 112 bucks!!
Cant wait
Oh also getting my cast (wish me luck) flywheel machined as in the diagram supplied by Smac.
Smac is that diagram recommended for a cast one? Its getting balanced with the clutch on Friday. Is that dangerous still or OK? Should I save the lightened flywheel for the a15 rebuild to balance it all up?
ill only be revving to 7200 or should I keep it to less???? its gonna cost me 125 for the machining, balancing and resurface from one of the best places in Melb. Duggan engineering, they supposedly used to do Larry Perkins stuff for his holden 8s.
ive got till Friday to pull out if anyone else knows best.

Go for it .. the drawing is for the factory A12 flywheel. I have never experienced any failures to the lightened standard flywheel and I've done quite a few... Just remember to machine the clutch face side as well. And VERY important.....check for cracks all these flywheels are old and may have developed fine heat cracks.

R169HD clutch which clutch is this?? it is the heavy duty clutch is it?

Yes the HD heavy duty thats what I meant its the one Harry talked about. The funny thing is that after telling them I had probs with pbr he said that they can do a credit for it as PBR are recalling alot of their stock. I said I didnt buy it there and he said that theyll still do a credit through them after they checked it anyway (there must be alot of angry customers for that to be the situation with those clutches). I didnt pursue it any further I was just glad they could get me a good product for a good price. However I feel bad returning that clutch the previous dead owner put in for 148 bucks.
As for the machining Im still skeptical for my previous hot a15 had most of the goodies from a speedway car and with a billet steel flywheel that when I checked the clutch had 3 almost hand loose flywheel bolts.
Also the guy who tuned my mikunis beautifully has gone to europe which means dyno places have no idea how to tune them and like the loose flywheel bolts, Maztech tuned my webers (since they are such business men that can do it all blah blah blah) to worse than what I started off with. When you think all the avenues have been taken Im sure there'll b more to come. Well you guys are my witness to Duggans and Daiken clutches.
Man Im paranoid lately checking and double checking everything even stuff I already know.
Need a holiday longer than 3 days.

i need a new clutch soon on the ute. i know its overkill but are these a straight swap in for a standard a12 clutch. I like a heavy clucth with heaps of bite. i had a custom paddle cluct done for my familia when i had it, it has heavy when engadged, h=but you could feel the travel whe you had to slip it on the 4wd gearbox.

The only thing that I reckon you should look at as well are the flywheel bolts that go into the crank. We have founs that the standard ones are pretty soft and crappy.
We replaced them with capscrews (use Unbrakos, they seem to be the strongest). Its not much fun having to pull a brand new engine out of a car to replace flywheel bolts and to strip it to machine the flange on the end of the crank.

Ive heard of unbrakos is that a brand?
The other cap bolts Ive seen are on the english pitroad site but they want too much for the little suckers. I wont be revving high with this engine so maybe the original nissan bolts from Nissan of course will hopefully do their job. Not like some low quality stuff sourced or recycled like PBR (Primitive Bastard replacements) or the crap that comes from malaysian chinese factories. Guys check were your stuff comes from. Some 555 parts are still good quality from Taiwan but now some stuff has relocated to china cause the chinese government has lured big companies to the mainland with cheaper workers and free real estate which equal = crap. This way we can keep tab of the A replacement parts that are best and support those who do their job.

Yes! Unbrako is the trade name. They are made of a 70 ton (I think) steel and are available form just about any bolt supplier.
Because they are a commercial product, they do not cost a lot, certainly cheaper than the "special" con rod bolts sold by some speed shops.
I reckon $10 or so is about the cheapest insurance you can ever get in this area.
The other thing is that you should pull them up at least 5-8 ft.lb more than recommended and use loctite.

Yep, some of the car factories use loctite-type stuff on the flywheel bolts. Not the permanent kind, but the "don't come lose" type of loctite.

i use loctite i mean the last thing you want is your bolts coming loose at 9000 rpm ouch