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Got some work done in the meantime, will post up some text and pictures soon. Car running and going very well.

The castings look rough because the pictures are pixelated. The manifolds are a good design and they fit where they are supposed to. He's just down the road from me. They also make a conversion manifold which bolts to a sidedraught weber manifold, to which you can then bolt any of the 20V Toyota 4AGE throttlebodies. The conversion manifold has injector bosses for top feed injectors, so you only use the throttles themselves. We have done this with an A14, went quite well, but was a little on/off around town because the throttles are so big.

Video of it running http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eI3OYuhoLO4

Both the sidedraught manifold and conversion one in these pictures come from him.

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Of course for probably the same price of a set of new Webers you can fit a set of Toyota throttles, fit an ECU, have it tuned and maybe have a few bob left for a case of beer. You'll save fuel on the way to get the beer and won't have to retune when you get back.

Unless you race in a very specific formula that won't allow you to use ITB's and injection, for me there is absolutely no motivation to use carburetors anymore. None.

At least here in South Africa that's the case and carb tuners are now scarcer than hens teeth. Those that are still around are stupid expensive too.

Contacted the guy now, will see if I can get him to send me some pictures then I'll post them up for you. I'm looking for a diff myself, or at least the center portion, so it would be useful for me to find out anyway.

Not trying to pick a fight if that is what you are thinking.

I make kits for converting the 1400's to 4AGE 16v/20V motors(mounitngs, water plates, 60-2 wheels and so on), a bunch of them running the XMS5 and appart from that there are Lexus V8(turbo charged as well), VW 8V's and turbo charged cars I personally know of who all run the XMS5 unit with no issues, none at all. One thing we did pick up is that their own 4 channel ignition amplifiers are crap and tend to give issues(they have amperage transistors in that can't take the punch), the 2 channel ones are perfect no issues there. Would love to see a link to the video if possible though.

Just wondering, if you install a management system of this nature, why do you still use the distributor and not go wasted spark?

On my own cars I've only ever used Dicktator(up to now), and if I want to build an airplane and it needs a ECU, I will use this, reliable as anything out there. If something does go wrong, you open it and solder back a 1k resitor most of the times, as they use those as a kind of fuse to protect the unit against short circuits and so on.

Go-Tech I would never use, lost maps, spikes in maps, odd behaviour as you describe, name it. Spitronics is a load of nonsense, they used to sell it as Joker down in the Cape and from those days it was bad, you have to fit resistors to use certain injectors, diodes and all kinds of stuff just to get them to work properly.

In all honesty, while they might not have the features the over the seas expensive managements have, some of the "Proudly South African" managements are every bit as reliable and easy to set up as any others out there. I've had various of them in my possession over the years and have never had difficulty to start any car I wired myself. Admitted, there's a bad apple here and there, but they are well known and easily avoided. It's a little disingenuous to compare local ECU's to the Link, since they are designed to cater for the market over here. On a level playing field no ECU can make more power than another if they are equally well tuned.

I'll be trying my hand at a Perfect Power XMS5 soon, which is packed choc full of features, still not on the level the Link might be, but the guys are having great success with it and it has some very cool features comparable to and over and above others, notably using a speed sensor input you can have traction control, street dyno and others. It has closed loop lambda with long term automatic tuning ability, closed loop boost control and it will keep logs of anything in the ECU either internally or in a laptop plugged in. It 8 fully configurable auxiliary outputs on any of the values the ECU reads and or produces, with the option to chain them together with if/and/or. It also now has digital display out puts for up to 8 digital displays for any of the values in the ECU reads or produces, with the option to mirror them for headsup display. This all for around R3800 which includes the ECU and an ignition amplifier which in itself has over current and heat protection with LED indication of internal status. Not bad if I might say so myself.

On another note, I love your build, have been following it since the beginning and every time someone talks down on our little cars I point them towards this thread so that they can see what can be accomplished with enough dedication and time. My own car has been gathering dust in the garage for 2 years now, mostly due to work commitment on a project that is now in it's very final implementation stage, so I'll be starting work on it again soon. I hope we can have a get together so I can look at this little monster in the flesh. I just missed it when it was standing at Profit having it's exhaust made some time ago and might have saved you ending up with that bugger up...

BTW, if you ever decide to go forced induction, I build and have built a bunch of turbo manifolds for quite a few guys down here in Cape Town and elsewhere in the country. One or two of the fastest on the drag strip has run and will soon be running my manifolds, one of which will be a contender for the fastest turbo charged 4 cylinder car in the country(Toyota 3RZ motor with a turbo the size of a VW beetle). Will be glad to help and show you a few tips to build one yourself, it's really not rocket science so to say. I'm a computer programmer myself and cars is my hobby, well at least when I can practice it...lol

Once you have confirmed the part numbers, simply log in and make the correction yourself.

Very easy fix is to pour a packet of curry powder in the radiator. The curry will circulate until it finds a hole where it will bake into a plug. Don't ask me why it works or how, we drove a A14 for almost a year like that, after a welsh plug sprung a leak, before we pulled the motor to rebuild it.

I'm sure it's not, but it sounds very similar to valve bounce.