I just bought a 1000 2 dr sedan for a daily and the old a10 has seen better days, pumps out a lot of smoke! i have an a12 from a 1200 ute available what i want to know is

is it just a straight swap?

are the four speed boxes the same? should i use the one in the 1000 or change it to the 1200's box?

any other help or advice would be great!

cheers

An A12 will go on the 1000 gearbox but if i remember rightly you need to cut a bit off the input shaft of the gearbox as the drilling in the rear of the A12 crank isn't as deep.

If it's a late engine the mounts wount line up so you'll have to make some plates to adapt them. Early engine should bolt right in.

-Ed

Waas it the one on ebay for $500?

If so nice car.

How about a10 to ca18det

I have an a12 in my parts car so I will take some pics for you.

Cheers

The 1200 engine is the prefered A12 version for simplicity of instalation as the engine mounts are in the same place & the altenator is on the correct side.
You will need to shorten the spiggot shaft on the 1000 gearbox as previously mentioned & you will need to figure out which clutch & flywheel you want to use.
The A10 flywheel is lighter, but has a smaller clutch. If you drive it with reasonable care, then this will pose no problem at all & is the easiest & quickest way out, otherwise if you use the 1200 flywheel & clutch you need to fit the 1200's clutch bearing assembly to the 1000 relaese fork. It's a bit fiddly, but it can be done OK.

If you use a ute gearbox, then it will fit in OK although the rear seal may be different. I I simply fitted a new 1000 seal to my gearbox to work with the original driveshaft as originally intended.

There should be no real problem with the 1200 clutch cable other than the possible need to use a distance piece [large size nuts & a few washers] at the firewall to make sure that you can get adequate adjustment on the cable.

The 1200 box has the clutch release arm in a different place & this will hit on the body/ firewall, so place a couple of flat washers between the gearbox crossmember & the floor to reduce the problem a little. You may also need to massage the area where the clutch arm contacts the body, so a trial fit may be necessaty to clearly identify this area.
Naturally you use the 1000's gearbox mount & crossmember.

The 1000 bonnet is lower than the 1200 & the 1200 block is taller than the A10 & the stock 1200 air filter rubs on the underside a bit, so a sports air filter may be the go.

If you use the later A12 engine, then the engine mount towers on the 1000's crossmember don't line up with the engine mounting brackets & you will need to weld an extention piece on the brackets that bolt to the engine to extend the mounting point to the right place. They are 40mm off line.
You would also need to do some rewiring to pick up the altenator which is placed on the wrong side of the newer engines.

1000's use a forked terminal on the wire that goes under the screw-on terminal for the temp sender unit while the 1200 uses an inline push on fitting. Replace the terminal on the wire, or switch the 1000 sender unit into the 1200 head & problem solved.

The original 1000 exhaust should fit up to the manifold OK & the radiator is bigger than the 1200 one, so you should have no problems there so long as it is serviceable.

The fitting at the back of the head for the heater hose is a different shape & I prefer to fit the 1000 one to the 1200 head. The hole where it fits is in a slightly different position at the back of the head, but not different enough to be a worry. [1200 head, I have no experience with the later A12 head]

That should pretty much cover it.

P.S. Remember that the 1000 uses a 4.11 to 1 diff ratio & with the 1200 engine & particularly with 12" wheels you will be forever looking for another gear. The 3,9 to 1, H145 diff from a 1200 passenger car will swap straight in, & of course some 13" rims that are 5" or 5-1/2" wide with 185x60x13 tyres will work a treat, & 185x65x13's on the rear will help that gearing problem a little, & help winter road safety a lot. These sizes are readily available a reasonably cheap.

E-mail me if you need even more detail.

ratdat - cheers for that, any idea on how and by how much i shorten it?

ian - yeah i'm thinking about it. please don't tempt me!

oan - thats the one, pretty sweet car, not 'mint' tho, has a few trolley dings but will be a good little runaround

dm - i was hoping you would answer! thanks heaps for that. the motor is an early 1200 one and hoped it would fit. i knew there were issues with the gearbox. so how do i shorten the spigott? with a grinder? can it be done while the shaft is still in the box? how much by? this sounds like my quickest option.

i put an a12 an to a 1000 auto the only thing i had to change was the engine mounts the old 1000 auto didnt andle the extra tourque from the mighty 1200 for long though

Quote:
I have seen the spiggot shaft shortened with an oxy torch, then trimmed with a grinder, or just use a grinding wheel to cut it off.
I forget how much needs to come off, but if you have a 1200 box handy, then just measure its spiggot length & shorten the 1000 box to match.
Yes, it can be done 'in situ'

Incidentally, the ute gearbox is different to the 1200 passenger models. It has a proper ball bearing to support the front of the cluster, while the regular ones use a closed end Torrington roller race, & this light duty bearing is just fine for regular use, but the ute box is 'heavy duty' This gearbox case [bellhousing] was also used for the competition departments four speed 'Option 1 & Option 2' gearbox's as well as the GX5's five speed box & the competition 'option 1' version of it.

Use the bolt-on engine mount lugs from the A10 & the 1200 engine just drops right in. If the engine mount rubbers are crook & the engine sags a little, you might have some slight clearance issues with the sump at the crossmember, but I always used the 1000 sump & good mounts & never had a problem.

The best way around the altenator situation is to simply unbolt the whole altenator & its mounting bracket from the 1200 block, then do the same with the A10 unit. One of them uses studs, so just double nut these & they come right out. Simply install the whole thing onto the 1200 block exactly like it was on the A10 & everything will be just hunkey dory. I think that at least one of these holes goes into the crankcase, so a little sealant on the threads will prevent an oil leak.
[P.S. I never ever had a 1200 altenator, which is the real reason I went this way, but if the 1200 one has the right electrical plug, then give it a try.]

The original Hitachi LT125.02 altenator produces a huge 24 amps, but I ran 55/60 QH headlights through a relay on mine & never had a problem,... ever.
It will be a good idea to get the regulator's output checked if you still have the original one since these seem to go out of adjustment quite regularly every 30 years or so. Get it adjusted up to the top end of the specs & your wipers will wipe good & your lights will really shine, & that's important in the winter.

If you keep the brakes adjusted properly, they work quite well, but hot laps down steep mountain passes will cause a bit of grief. I used the original drums on my sedan with GX & 5 speed the whole time & they were fine.
Hopefully this is of some help.

Glad to hear that you have this B10. If you do this engine change right it will be a top little ride, & since even the DeLuxe 1000 two door sedan is still 65k lighter than the lightest 1200 pasenger model [the coupe] it will run even better still. You will love it & will surely become a convert.

B10, the car you always wanted. [It's no ordinary car.]

thanks for all the info DM.

just to throw a quick one out there...

i was talking to 1200rc today and he has an a14 spare for just such an application... more hassle and too fast for the brakes? worth a look or just stick with the a12?

cheers
photos are up!

go the a14
the question is are you to fast for the brakes