L18_b110 did it too.

I don't think i'd do it again in a hurry. my ute came with a mitsibishi motor in it, and so had already been chopped and changed. i didn't want to go back to the a series after that so i went for the L to keep it datsun.

Biggest advantage of the L series is the torque. It just makes it heaps more forgiving to drive. I can take off in 3rd no problems, other than a slight grumble, I can take my foot off the clutch with it in first and not touch the accelerator, and it'll hardly even drop revs as it starts to move forward. can't be bothered dropping back to 2nd for a corner?? just leave it in 4th....

as for cornering, mine still handles fine. It has 120y suspension (i think) and handles a lot better than stock.

oh yeh, and it still sounds like an A series too!

if i had a chance to do it all over again, i'd do an L18 instead of the A14 (even though i got a crate motor gratis), but i'm just a power junkie

I have recently sold my L series conversion out of my coupe (and my coupe). I would not hesitate in doing another. The torque was awesome (even with a standard L20). It is really a straight forward conversion, and can be done without any structural mods apart from the crossmember. (I didn't have to touch the firewall or tunnel)
I went down the path of getting it engineered. It was pretty much a straight sign off with the only cost being the engineers certificate (it didn't require any further mods). (I had twin spot calipers on stanza struts and a ute diff which the engineer was happy with)
5spds are plentiful and cheap, and L series parts are the same.
As for handling, with stanza struts, kingsprings and kyb inserts it handled really well.
From experience, I could carry more speed through a number of corners at Phillip Island race track with this package than an early model wrx. (not sure if this is a fair comparison, I thought it was at the time)

Downside:
need to modify crossmember initially
source radiator to fit
fit hydraulic clutch
need to get a tailshaft to fit
upside:
parts for conversion and longer term maintenance and upgrades are plentiful and relatively cheap
big lift in torque even in standard form.

Just my two cents worth
cheers
Bruce

having had numerous other 1200s with worked A series engines, that were dissapointingly slow and would destroy gearboxes every few months I decided to go with an L series for my last coupe.

the L seriers is a huge advantage for a street car:
1) Even the tired stock L16 with small cam and twin SUs which I first used in my 1200 had massive amounts more torque and power than the worked A14 I previously had with milled mitsubishi pistons, high CR, big cam, twin carbs, balanced, tweaked oval port head etc. A L16-20 powered 1200 drives like a V8 compared to the A series.
2) cheap, readily available, and strong 5spd gearboxes. A series 5spds are rocking horse #### and too expensive. the celica dellow conversion isn't cheap either. You could buy a whole driveline and everything you need for the L series conversion for the price of either A series 5spd option.

there is also still alot of misconceptions out there about the weight/handling issue - I've posted the corner weights and weight distribution of my L18 1200, and used to race it against a highly developed A14 powered 1200 coupe with 108bhp at the wheels at the tightest twistiest track around - Morgan Park short course. I thought he had a slight handling advantage over me, until I changed to the same tyre he was using! then it was me with the handling advantage... I've also raced against a 1000 2dr sedan with a claimed 150bhp at the wheels that doesn't even come close to my times with the 116rwbhp 1770cc L18 I had, let alone the 146rwbhp 1995cc SWR engine we had later! there is no reason handling should be worse with the L series, unless of course you were planning on leaving the standard 1200 suspension in place?

L series are just as inexpensive to build up, if not cheaper, than A series. And at the end you get much better results. Hell, a standard L20 (ie standard head, standard valves, standard CR, unbalanced, standard bottom end) with just a mild cam and twin webers can easily get over 100 bhp at the wheels - that's not easy to do with an A series engine! $$$ per bhp, L series wins hands down. And they are more driveable at the same time.

if you can do the work yourself, I say go for it. you won't be dissapointed!

Yep 5 speed is the main advantage for me. its either $1000 a series 5 speed or $1000+ on a dellow.

As the 1200 came with L14s in the PB110, engineering shouldnt be a drama at all. I would even guess u could take it to your local road authority and just change the engine number over (as long as the mounts look factory).

I spoke to my engineer about conversions into pre adr ('76) cars, he said as long as the brakes are up to scratch, mounts looked ok and windscreen wiper speeds (?) were working then it would pass.

Go the L series! give the a series to the morris guys :P *runs and hides*

What does one need to fit an L into a 120Y? ( it's less confusing than 210, etc.. )

Am i correct that you need the x member that went with the engine the tranny and tranny x member and proper driveshaft?

what L would be most reasonable for the little car? L16 or L18 - can larger L's fit easily?

... this would be way too easy if so

I've heard to do this conversion its easiest to use 180b parts and start with an auto car.

Basically 180b xmember bolts up to some models of 120y (b210) and the auto gearbox should be around the right length. Then the auto tailshaft slips into the L series gb.

Saying that, I havent done this conversion and dont know for sure. I guess theres prob more issues with the sump and stuff.

Quote:

Thats what ive been told by baz at Datsport, should be no problems, just have to go for a number inspection.

Throw those pushrods in the bin!!

my avanta says it al lol

Has anyone check if the L series xmembers are still availible from nissan? The sumps look different too!

PM me for part numbers if anyone wants to check em out