You can do this...






Note that the sandwich plates on the inside is of the same thickness material(50mmx6mm flat stock), and that they extend beyond the two chassis rails that run underneath the floor, that should add lots of strength.

That isnt a t50 but that similar to how i made it...

Could you send me a pic of the engine cross member and or engine bay pics of a 4agte

Today i was tinking the mounts are wrong TO HIGH but it cant go any lower.

Did the box come up further then you thought.

It pretty close to tunnel
where stick goes in.

hey demo have you had a squiz at WOGBOY's pics? some good detail of engine mounts etc.

I have had enough

its getting to me
everyting is just not fkn working

Got no help
got no idea anymore

I think in gonna give up soon on this ####

Its just not fun working on it anymore
i wish i could just pay some1 to finish it all off but no 1 has ant idea on this conversion and if i give to a random mechanic theyl charge so much

Ive had enough

and so has my foot

i even got the cash and parts that i needed
but i have worked
day and nite 3 or 4 months straight now and
#### IT

but thanks every1 thats helped

pm normo mate, he had the same setup in his ute.

The way kululadotgroen has shown you is probably going to the easiest way. All thats needed it some flat bar, a bender and a drill press.




Short of that, you also have this option that PIGDOG has done. It looks neat as, looks strong as hell. I'd probably go this option if I were you.

Also, when you do mount up the engine/gearbox, make sure you measure the pinion angle on the diff, and make sure the gearbox output shaft is the same angle but opposite to avoid uni joint bind, and annoying vibrations.

*Just to clarify....If pinion on diff points up 3 degrees, make sure the output shaft on the gearbox points down 3 degrees. You could probably run the g/b angle at say 4-5 degrees, as the diff pinion will generally lift a degree or 2 when you nail it*

"standard 4age gearbox crossmember? Its for a fwd gearbox?"

The t50 came out in RWD corrollas as well as the levin..also coronas?? and celicas??

I think I used the GB mount of a corrolla...with very little grinding it attached (if I remember correctly) to the standard datto mounting holes..

The stick poked through the original hole with no metal needing removal..

As for the pix below...no offence...but the welds are in tensile load which is a no no..

And as for giving up......crikey dude...toughen up

yeah i like the way i did it....just have to cut up a 180b to do it

Quote:

Yes, stronger is probably always better, but if one has a look at the rubber mounting that is attached to the gearbox, and how flexible it is, then I can't see any reason why you would want to have anything stronger than to simply hold the box up and in place. You just want the tail piece to stay in place and that's it, there's going to be no torsional stresses in those mounts through the floor at all, simply downwards carrying stresses, which is not a lot. Probably 98% of the torsional stress is taken up by the engine mountings.

Generations of people have done it "my way", and they have lasted as long as memory. But I must add if I had the time and patience I would probably have done it PIGDOG's way, as it seems far more professional, but it would be no better....

Quote:

What I meant is you cant use the gearbox crossmember that comes with the engine, unless it was some super rare factory N/S rwd 4age, which I've never seen, The T50 boxes mostly came off 4ac engines.