Here are a bunch of pics of my custom three piece crank pulley.
The factory pulleys have a bad habbit of cracking through the keyway. The factory twin pulleys (For air con?) are hollow inside the back of the main crank pulley, and not really suitable for modifying to take a PK pulley adaption. My pulley has a steel boss which both resists being fretted by the front seal, (aluminium can't hack it) and can cope with the extra strain of driving the blower. Then the crank pulley and blower drive pulley bolt to the boss. This enables easy changes to the blower drive ratio, or even to underdrive the waterpump and alternator if desired. This doesn't get around the having to have the blower mounted farther forward than the intake point on the engine, but it does alevieate the need to replace the pulley/clutch arrangement on the supercharger itself.

Also note that all the black crap you can see on the aluminuim, is that spray on belt grip. A bloke at the drags had a can, and I wanted to see if I could sqeeze a bit more out of my engine.

If anyone would like one of these, PM me. You might be pleasantly surprised how cheaply I can have one made for you.

I think I will take mine off and shoot some photos as well!

Bart I like the pulley but I would like to use a cogged unit
if possible to take as much strain away as I can from the whole thing.

Ive been thinking of using a truck alternator with the rear airpump to run
a pulley from there to power the supercharger sitting on top of a modded
manifold similar to the original manifold but with more capacity.

This way the force on the alternator bearing is almost the same on both
sides. Especially if using cogged pulley rather than V or ribbed setups.

Just looking at the truck alternators with hydraulic lines makes me think
what about a hydraulic pressure driven pump to turn the supercharger?
or is the speed required too high? I can imagine a pressure line going to
the supercharger instead of a complex pulley system.




Can anyone think of why it would work?

Jmac,
Will LPG run hotter as a suck through and need water injection?
Im thinking of running an impco 200 with the 90 degree feed for
easier of packaging.

Bart you should crop those photos they are massive!!!

Pulleys look great though

They should downsize once they have all loaded to the page. (At least they do for me)

By a cogged belt, do you mean like a gilmour belt? I don't think they're really warranted with a toyota blower. The multi rib belts are pretty effeicient. I know a bloke from the drags who just runs a multi rib belt on an eaton M112 on his lexus V8. So unless you really want the look and sound of the toothed belt, I don't beleive they're worth the expense/hassle.

You can use the toothed pulleys from diesel pumps from most utes and vans.
Providing the right size is chosen and most are made of cast iron.
The reason I want toothed belt is they require the least amount of effort
by virtually eliminating tension on the belt.
I know what you mean about noise but superchargers are noisy as hell already.
Bart have you considered running a twin 36 or 40mm downdraft weber from Fiats
or Alfas? or are happy with the Holley now?

heres a pic of the pulley that
can be welded onto a twin pulley vanette one
usually found on the a15 engine

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I'm happy enough with the holley, apart from it wanting to leak now and again. It doesn't really go any harder than it did with the 32/36, but with the powervalve set up it does use less gas. (Plus I could add a mr gasket scoop) Also it doesn't "blip" like the weber did when the secondary is opened.

U'll still need some form of tensioner even with the toothed belt. And you'd be quite suprised how little noise the blowers themselves actually make. You just get an induction roar, but nothing like the whine of a gilmer belt.

Youve sold me on the belt, Id get tired of the gilmer belt like noise.
Im surprised the weber did worse without the powervalve as they do have
a similar mechanism in non-progressive carbs eg. dhla, ida/f and dcoe.
Theres a vw with an sc12 with a twin 40mm dcoe that made 10l/100km so
they must be better than the 32/36 for boost?
When you say Blip do you mean flat spot?

here is the vw setup, it was actually 9L/100km


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/vi ... id=65678&action=printable

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