Thanks to Steve (phunkdokta) after looking under a 1000 wagon I finally saw the flat floor on one parked in St Kilda. Its simple flat and unlike my sedan and decided I gotta get one cause itll allow easier modding.

Im getting an Alfa LSD shortened and going holden brakes and stud pattern all round cause I was able to get a set of big vented front rotors and alloy vented calipers for nothing from my cousings upgrade to brembos on his new commondoor SS. In future hopefully alloy hatted rotors from his next upgrade ;)

I wanted to do Steves ingenious path with the falcon front stub axles but I might be able to get custom hubs machined up for a decent price to take the rotors and then lasercut a couple of brackets for the calipers for the fronts and get the axles modded to take the disk brake rear parts.

I cant believe that it took me so long to notice the wagons different floor at the rear allowing an easier path to mod it to house the larger diffs.
Steve put a BW one in and got me thinking how on earth can it be done??!!

Steve can you show me a shot of the rear area or the modd youve done to get the diff to miss when you lower it?

Does anyone else have any ideas or attepted to modd the rear chassis rails to allow more diff clearance for the 1000 to stop it reaching its limits on the bump stops???

I just drove this grey wagon from past Castlemaine and shes pretty sweet with a reco A10. This old dude also had a complete diff and front end if anyone wants to take it off his hands but hes 15 mins out in Castlemaine.

d.

Dodgeman My factory book says wagons come in at 645kgs is that for the deluxe or did they also come out in standard trim?

P.S> Man my 2 door sedan is friggen angry!

D I don't know if I told you now I tubbed the wagon so I could fit the wheels I want
( 15" x 7" ) without them scrubbing on the inside. To do this I moved the rails in one and a half inches on each side.
To fit the diff I didn't need to mod anything, but I wanted my wagon to sit low, so the plate on the rails where the bumpstops are designed to hit I removed to give about an extra inch of free travel, plus with repositioned bumpstops I get about 2 inches more travel.
With the car sitting this low and with this extra travel the diff centre would come into contact with the floor, so I raised the floor over the diff 1 inch. ( Like you see on
mini trucks)

With all these mods the car doesn't sit below legal height ( the centre of the headlights are 600mm from the ground and under the car nothing is lower than 100mm.
The car also sits level, ( not like a mad gemini
with no springs in the back))

Right now the wagons on the rotisserie cleaning up the welds in the wheel arches and prepairing the undercarrage for painting.
I will take pics but I don't have a digital camera so the pics might be a while.

Cheers Steve

Well sounds like its roasting beautifully!
I know you cant wait but neither can I to see your puppy finished.
Im gonna hold on till I see how youve done the minitruck denting so i can get mine right.
My old 240z was so low I had to remove the bump stops but it was terrible without them so I put them back on and learnt to avoid hairline fractures on the road.

Thanks for the help well keep the brain ticking till it explodes.

D I wouldn't use the word denting. Go look at a mini truck website and you will get my drift. basically i cut out the floor the length of the tubs ( front to back) from rail to rail, then i raised the floor 1 inch in this position.
This was only done so the centre would not hit the floor during its travel. ( so no steping of the rails was needed)

As for removing the bumpstops completely, now you have an uderstanding why they are there. so you just have to re design them so they still function.

Some where I have some old pics of under the car. I will try and locate them.

Later Steve

Thanks Steve, looking forward to them
My diff will hit too otherwise as its a tall beast. As for tubs, Im going to flare them but still make them look as stock as possible for the 14 x 7 rims.
d.

Quote:

D
[did i spell that right]
My parts book lists the VB10 [std] as weighing 645kg & the VB10 DeLuxe at 665kg. That's in "stock" trim, but that will vary after you have messed with it a bit. You'd be surprised how much those mag wheels can weigh.

The sporty coupe comes in at 675kg, but mine's a whisker more with the "leather" roof. That would be simulated artificial imitation leather, better known as Vinyl.

Youre getting better at spelling I see
Mums still having trouble though

Thanks for the info and yes I found a few fact. brochures and one even states the 1000 sports coupe at 705kgs, must be the optional full lead dash clock and the video size cassete tape player.

Now before you all kill me... could anyone in melbourne answer my question???

This wagon was bought for the convertible project Ive shown on the chop top picture I photochopped. Problem is I dont want to use a box frame under the floor but rather inside.

After someone post info on who can do it in Melb. then its open season

Hey Phunkdoktspok, did you build the rotisserie for the Datsun?

Do you have the specs by any chance?

remember those listed weights are DRY WEIGHTS

my rego papers say my wagon weighs 710 kg

PizPump yeah half and half.
Specs;
Get 2 engine stands.
stand at the back of the car and mesure it diagonaly from a top corner to the opposite bottom corner, half this measurement.
cut the top of both engine stands.
get some metal the same size and thickness as the stand.
extend the stands so they are higher than the earlier measurment.
Weld it all together.
Next get some more metal and join the bottom of the stands while they're facing each other so that they are the length of the car apart.
Now make some mounts for the car to attach to the stands.
Mount it all up and you are done.

I think there are pics in the photo album of a rotisserie that Wally made, its made differently but in the end you get the same kind of result.