Now I'm dreaming again. I want a 6-speed too, because my A12 tops out at a pathetic 90 mph (150 kph).

needs more hp

my a14 tops out at 164, I think it's time for some areo

I've had ca18de 5 speed (stumpy) bouncing off the "0" stopper on the round dash with 3.9 h165 ute diff. Just need a long enough straight.

I was thinking more like this maybe someone with
rear engine plates from a CA and A series could
combine the two? need good alignment though with
the centering of the crankshaft point.
Maybe Don, Bob, Simon or Chris could do it?
example below of some mg midget commercial and home
made adapter for different boxes.
What got me thinking about it was DDs post on page 1
and also seen a 1500 early ute which usually has column
shift with old 4 speed box then converted to floor shift
L series 5 speed using a 5mm rear plate w/ tapped/dowels.
Also suzuki sierra/jimny have this option for conversions.

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  rear engine plate 2.jpg (63.52 KB)


  rear_plate_1800_3m.jpg (46.86 KB)

Need to get ca, L, Z and A series plates to compare
eg. heres a srve one cause they couldnt get the serena bell
http://datsun510.com/photopost/showph ... engine-assembled&cat=3317

The problem with adaptor plates is that it all comes down to relative starter motor positions. For an adaptor to work you need to have the starter in the right place and enough room to get any extra mounting bolts positioned. That is why it is best to use a gearbox with a removable bell housing and make your own bell housing. Another important point is the spigot diamater of the doner gearbox. It's very easy to say 'just machine down the spigot' but not everyone has access to someone who can do this cheaply. Sure the T5 is a good canditate but as for the aftermarket ratios, I wouldn't personally buy them unless they are tried and tested. I've seen first hand what comes out of the US&A as far as gear components are concerned and it's not good. Cheap = nasty. Meaning low fatigue life and noisey. Certainly unground with high tolerences.

The getrag's are good but most have an external shifting mechanism. Complicated to repair as well. TZe Germans certainly know how to over complicate everything. That's why they have to be so efficient.

The biggest hurdle to overcome is the clutch throwout side of things. The best thing to do is remove this altogether and replace it with a hydraulic slave rright on the snout. Which can be done. We can supply one from billet alloy from around $550 plus an adaptor to suit your individual application. I'll be working on one to suit a 60 series shortly.

The best solution IMO is to fabricate a bell housing to replace that of an existing gearbox like a 71 series but again, it's finding a bunch of people willing to pay $1000 for the unit. Pattern making and machining costs are expensive. If I could sell 100 units I could probably get them made for around $800. But there is a bit of machining involved as it is replacing the front gearbox case and the bell housing.

Starter is not usually too much of a problem. Just cut away that part of the bell, and bolt the starter to the adapter plate. hundreds of engine swaps have been done this way.

Just some food for thought
I run a Dellow 5speed Toyota conversion and due to the shorter input shaft on the Toyota box(relative to the bell housing I assume) I have a sintered bronze bush machined up that is pressed into my fly wheel which I had lightened at the same time. This seems to work very well (been in there for 8 years no problems) and would reduce the need for shaft machining.