My brother in law has just installed a amr500 On his a12 and was wondering if any one has information on the oil needed to use and how much to put in ?

Aisin
These are miniature GMC variants with 2-lobe straight rotors made in at least 4 sizes. The smaller are the AMR300 (300cc) and AMR500 (500cc). The 1200 and 1420cc capacity, known as SC12 and SC14, are used on Toyota engines. The rotors are fluorine resin coated. The units have their own lubricating oil, 130cc. Stock boost is regulated to about 0.7 bar.

Most people will probably think heavy gear oil (aka diff oil gl-5 spec) is the go, but I'd advise against it. It will work, but it won't be ideal.

Either use a monograde engine oil, or a gl4 spec gearbox oil.

If price isn't a big deal, about the best gearbox oil (and will also be good for this app) is shell spirax S4 txm

The 'short' version is diff oil (gl 5 spec oil) has an additive package to make it 'work' with diff gears that are hypoid (the pinion rotates on a different centreline to the crownwheel, so the teeth don't 'mesh' like gearbox teeth, they actually slide across each other) - this requires certain additives to make it work which are actually not as good for 'regular' gears and also corrosive to certain white/yellow metals (of which there might be some inside the front case of the supercharger or there might not).

Diff oil is also thicker at room temp, but actually thins out a LOT at operating temp.It's also rated on a different viscosity scale/range than regular oil, so in fact 80w/90 diff oil thins to similar to 5w-30 engine oil at 100C.

If monograde engine oil or gl-4 spec gearbox oil isn't easy or cheap to get where you are, I'd suggest dexron iii automatic transmission fluid (heck I'd suggest dex ii but I don't know if it's even available anymore. The current spec last time I checked is dexron vi - which is apparently backwards compatble with autos requiring dex ii or iii, but it is a little bit thinner. )

Another thing I'd add is that just as important as 'which oil' (maybe even more so) is to regularly make sure it's got enough oil in there, and if you can, change it every time you change the engine oil, or every 5000km if you aren't changing the engine oil as often. Since they only take a few hundred ml of oil (approximately, probably a bit less) it's not that expensive to change it that often.

I'd add that I'd probably change the oil on an amr500 more often than an sc12 or sc14 charger - because they are smaller they have to be spun at higher rpm to make enough boost, so they will tend to see a little more heat potentially.

Would good to see your BIL how he goes with the results of the AMR500

They as Nick pointed out run at around 14psi and have about 16000rpm redline so as Jmac pointed out wouldnt hurt to change the oil as often as you change engine oil or service your donk.

Im playing with one of these soon, still to finish the manifold but almost there just need time.

Ive been using Dexron 3 and 4 in my manual gboxes with great effect.
The latest Dex4 in my suzuki carry box works better than factory recommended oil.

Now if only we could add some detergents into refined Palm oil for our engines we would be set :)

The Paxton SC that I had on my Mustang uses Automatic Tranny Fluid. I thought synthetic oil would be better but someone told me otherwise.

The factory toyota oil is really strange stuff. It feels really greasy between your fingers, and has a silicon like smell. It costs the earth too. Although I scored some a little while back very very cheap.

There were 'some' (and by this I mean I don't have personal experience of this to speak of) concerns about 2 things with regard to synthetics. One was the belief that they were 'so' slippery that with roller lifters the roller wouldn't roll, it'd literally 'slide' or the lobe would slide across it, on roller cams (which many engines - even pushrod engines - were going to - i.e. roller lifters, back in the 'relatively' more early days of widely available commercial synthetics. I have no personal experience of this save for the fact that I know of plenty of people who have run roller lifter based engines (mostly gm gen ii/iii and beyond v8s) with synthetic oil without a problem. And for all intents and purposes you'd typically find the slipperier the better.

the other concern initially was that under extreme heat (the het of blowby, burning gases, and also the heat which was both partly blowby related and partly inherent design related) on air cooled engines. The fear was that some of the friction modifiers and VI improvers used to make the early synthetics even more 'multigrade' (staying the same thickness over a wider temperature range) - the fear was that these bits would 'break down' and then the oil you are left with is inferior to (fresh, low mileage) mineral or monograde oil,

Pretty much all of this second concern is no longer even potentially an issue because modern generation synthetics aren't 'full' of those particular additives any more, but rather have been refined (as in 'developed' not as in extracted from the regular mineral based oil refinery process) to the point they are stable across a wide range of temps..

auto trans oils are a good choice, esp if you are on a budget, they are the right sort of viscosity, and _will_ have an additive package to suit the gears and bearings in a supercharger, and also have some anti-frothing agents in there that will tend to help the oil get to and stay where it needs to be.

I tend to recommend the dexron spec trans fluids becuase they differ to the tqf (I think also called type f by some oil co's) spec oil a little bit in their friction attributes, but mainly because dexron tends to be fine with all types of oil seals and gaskets, but the other can cause deterioration of some particular type of seal (some particular chemical ingredient in the seal). For the record I don't know what that specifically is, but rather have heard about it leading to seepage/slight leaks if TQF was put into a trans requiring dexron, but not the other way around. The two fluid types do differ in how the clutch packs 'grab' when a particular band or clutch is engaging the next gear in an auto. I think (but wouldn't swear to it) that some people tried tqf in their auto (which was meant to run dexron) because it would grab and engage the next gear slightly more aggressively. which is possibly how people found this out I really don't know for certain on that front, but I can say that if i was ever going to use auto trans fluid in a manual gearbox or power steering or a supercharger like this, i'd run a dexron spec fluid for sure.

Or spend the $100 bucks and use the right oil. When people take short cuts, things tend to blow -up. And that will cost you, a fk load more. Im sure trannies diffs and engines use different oil for a reason. Your building a SC engine, your going to use more petrol, wear out ya tyres and clutch prob quicker. If money is so tight dont SC it and you'll save on wear and tear and of coarse petrol.... toyota SC12 from memory used 180cc and AMR500 was around 130cc. prob better to ring up for exact specs.

Id rather use spit after some greasy chinese food just the right amount of additives :)

Lol, Mite have to put you to work D, heard your full of Spit !!