I was looking at an engine on the weekend. Is there anyway of telling if it is an A15/A14 or A12 from the engine number? The number is 101405A. Nissan OZ has no idea, as they dont track
any imports into the country.

Does anyone know where I can get some stronger internals for the A15, just so I can up the compression and get a few more ponies? Are there many coumpanies that make aftermarket parts
for the A15?

thanyx
mely

Not many I've found.But open the ports on the head up and put a good cam & carb on the engine and let her breath.She'll do you
a good job.

There should be a casting on the right side of the motor that says A14 or A15. The A13 and A12 had it stamped on a machined surface on the right side towards the rear of the block. I
think the A14s from 1978 and below had the stamp on the machined surface also. All of the A-series motors can be identified by these numbers on the outside of the block.

The factory rods of the A14 that have an H cast into them are the strongest and lightest of the series that came from the factory. They are pretty compared to other stock rods. They
usually came in motors that had the forged steel crankshafts also. The factory never made forged steel cranks in the A15.

Mareo

I think you are in Australia. Check the www.ozdat.com site,there is several places in Australia that have parts for performance.I have some info,unfortunately is not on me right now
(home) ,but check that club and their links,you will be surprised,in a way I envy you,because in Australia they have a lot more development for Datsuns and other popular familiar
cars.For carburators there is redline carburators (webers and others),and for engines ,cams,parts and short blocks ,there is several.
Good Luck.

Thanks fellas
mely

call some engine builders, and someone will know someone who dabbles in 1200...there is Jeff Taylor in Sydneys west, who is a bit of a guru... he could mail u stuff, he did
when i was in newcastle...
his number is 0418 168159.

Linc.

Generally the engine nond the engine designation are seperate. Look near the dizzy if it's mounted on the middle of the driver's side for the designation. Otherwise still on the drivers side
but near the back just below the line of the head.

Shave 60 thou of the head to up the compression (stock could be 8.3 or 8.9:1). You can do this safely and run on standard unleaded petrol - this is what I took off mine.

You can use and A12 head, but the A15 has heaps better ports and valves - which makes it's compression ratio carby, and cam even more of a waste. Don't bother porting an A15 head as it's
heaps better than A12 heads and will probably take more than the valves can take. Also the A12 head will be too high compression without work to reduce it or high octane fuel.

The bottom end of an A15 is more than strong enough for most sensible uses, even mild turbo charging (under 14psi).

If you want to turbo, leave the compression (head) alone and use either the stock cam or the A12 cam. Use A12 or a reground cam for atmo engines (but don't accept anything or believe any
excuses for a cam that can't be dialled in without adjustable cam gears - a price of being to busy at work to do it properly (yourself)). I'd go the factory A12 one, partly due to the
bullsh*t I've gone through with nearly every aftermarket cam I've had in any of my cars. Also you should have a spare if you're chucking an A12. Also, then you know the dizzy advance is
right to match the cam (but maybe not the compression)

Most A12/A15 swaps in OZ are a straight swap, due to the crossmember we use in most 1200's. For instance most utes use what was effectively an L13 crossmember (don't ask cos Aussies never
saw this engine). This isn't necessarily so elsewhere in the world. If not look for the differences in crossmember before you pay for one.

Use the A12 carby over the A15 - bigger jets. Dellortos or side draft webers are popular, but I'd go with 32/36 weber for the cost and driveability.

What more do you need than this? Carb cam and engine mods all covered.