So I'm wondering, do they exist? I'm thinking of putting a header on my 210 (from datrats) but if I use that header I'll have to block of the heat port that goes into my intake and it probably wouldn't get past inspection. Here's a pic of the header and intake. THe radiator thingy on the exhaust goes into that big hole on the intake. What effect does heating the intake gas have on performance, emissions, or efficiency? Will I have problems if I dont use this intake?

Another option is to use my Z SUs but I can't find a manifold for that. Anyone got a spare sitting around they want to get rid of (oval intake ports)? :) Or anyone know who can make one in the US? Is there someone out there who will just weld one up if I send him the stock intake and a Z intake? Thanks
Michael

I've never seen or heard of a peformance downdraft manifold for A-series. At least not an off-the-shelf one. I've seen some home-made ones.

Quote:Good for emissions and fuel economy (when the carb jetting is tuned to match), but bad for performance. For hp, you want cool intake charge, not warmed up ...

Quote:The only performance problem is during cold weather. When the temperature gets close to freezing, around 35 degress F and colder your carburetor can ice up. There are two solutions when using a tubular exhaust header:
1. Create a sheet-metal box that goes from the header tubes up to the bottom of the manifold. Some aftermarket headers had this but it's rare
2. Use the newer water-heated B310 intake manifold. This is the one that has the small coolant hoses to the manifold.

My belief is that a heated manifold is good for hp. This breaks the fuel down creating better mixture and gets rid of the fuel condensing on the inside of the manifold. I have got headers and I am going to mill out the fins of that part of the intake manifold, weld a plate to the bottom and add points where hoses can connect to so water flows through the manifold.

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interesting concept.
i think the only contradiction to that is a hot inlet charge is more prone to detonation than a cooler inlet charge.

and if the air is heated with it, then it will expand and there will be less air entering the cylinder comparitively.

you could always sandblast the inside of the inlet manifold to mix the air and fuel and atomise it a bit better before it enters the combustion chamber.

What a trip...Talk about timing is everything in life! I have tried to load up a few photos of a manifold I made. I can't seem to load it up in this site...so check it out at the Yahoo Groups Datsun 210 site. I made it so it can use a Weber DGV without an adapter...the ports are alot bigger than our stock A series manifold! A friend of mine who owns European Motorsports was impressed with the results...he suggested I market a few...But I'm hesitant to invest in this venture...I would like to take orders in advance to make the investment! Check it out and let me know if you are interested in one! Hey...I just resized my photo ...now it was accepted this site!
Leosnake

That is exactly what I am doing to my manifold. The Redline adaptor that I bought is a piece of sh#t! It is flow restricting, ugly and creates air turbulence where it is bolted to the manifold. A home made welded on plat or as above is much better. I was also comparing Toyota K series inlet manifolds and they are way better than what Datsun produced for their engines.

Hey Leosnake, did you weld that yourself or have it done? Got a pic with the carb mounted? I checked out your Yahoo gallery.
michael

Is that a pre crossflow Ford/Datsun A14/15 hybrid?

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When I put a set of Coby extractors on my A14, I had to grind off a lagre part of the water jacket to get them to clear. (Aswell as part of the flanges to get the manifold and flows to fit together on the head) And then block off the water ports. Ask Feral if this could be an Issue with the flows you plan to use.