What about using some kind of torque strap? "Chain" the int/exh side of the motor down. I think that's the correct side. When viewed from the front, the crank goes clock-wise and the block tries to go counter-clock-wise.
right?

yeah the motor pulls that way

your all madmen!
i know they delete mounts on dragcars
but in our case your just attempting to transmit forces to places they wernt design to be for what reason i still dont see
on a 30yo car this aint a great idea i reckon
even though im going to be rallying mine, so what can i say

Don't ask me why. I just threw in my 2 cents. I have never broken a mount. Maybe, if i get my engine to run right, I'll be fortunate enough to have an engine with TOO much torque.

engine mounts were always a real problem when I was running A series motors. Try a standard Ford Cortina mount. They are round, and look wrong when fitted, but they are bloody strong.

Cortina mounts are good i've used them. I've also used sunny mounts which look much the same only stronger or you can use two bits of flat bar about 40 by 4mm and use two mounts side by side with the flat bar top and bottom If its a later A series motot on an early crossmember then one mount bolts through the crossmember and the other mount bolts through the engine mount. Also fixes the problem with different engine mount positions
Hope this helps

I've had similar problems with engine mounts with the 1200. I've done the same thing Olboy by using 2 mounts on the extractor side and 1 on the other. There is room for another there but havent needed to yet, just a matter of drilling 2 holes! I snapped left mounts all the time with my last engine, but with 2 mounts and a 150hp A series, havent had a prob since. No need for major mount changes unless you change the engine itself!!

Scott
Davo

how would one go about getting 150hp out of an a-series motor im wondering? which a-series also

Reliable 150 hp out of an A series involves a visit to JTS here in Sydney. Jeff has about 30 years time with A series and is an absolute legend. He built Davo's A14 and that is a snotty wee beast. Think extensive head work and 45's and 150 reliable hp is yours for keeps. Trans Tasman Racing is about to pick up an A15 race motor that he has done and we're pretty excited. If you want to go off carbs to injection then you'll knock at the 200hp door - that's our Phase 3 plan.

approx how much for a-14 with 150hp? i would supply a-14 block, gx head and 42mm webers