Dashboard removal

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Category: Body Electrical System

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Revision as of 12:25, 22 February 2016 ddgonzal (Talk | contribs) (->Instrument Panel Mounting) <- Previous diff		Revision as of 00:01, 15 April 2016 ddgonzal (Talk | contribs) (->Detailed Steps) Next diff ->
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	# Carefully pull dash away from firewall. Make sure the heater control levers are out of the slot		# Carefully pull dash away from firewall. Make sure the heater control levers are out of the slot
	# Carefully and slowly pull dash assembly out passenger door. While doing so, check to ensure wires and heater control are all free		# Carefully and slowly pull dash assembly out passenger door. While doing so, check to ensure wires and heater control are all free
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	==Clean Up and Maintenance==		==Clean Up and Maintenance==

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Revision as of 00:01, 15 April 2016

Nissan calls the dash assembly the "Instrument Panel". Both square-gauge type (Standard) and round-gauge type (Deluxe) are removed in the same way.

Also see Wiring

Also see: Dash Changes for info on swapping Round-gauge cluster into a Standard-trim 1200.

Contents 1 Instrument Panel Mounting 2 Dash Assembly Removal 2.1 Overview 2.2 Detailed Steps 3 Clean Up and Maintenance 4 Removing the Dash Pad 5 Cluster Lid Removal and Replacement 5.1 Instructions 6 Reinstall

Instrument Panel Mounting

The dash unit (instrument panel) mounts to the firewall via three screws on the top side, and a bolt at each side, underneath.

The top screws are accessible close to the windshield. A right-angle Philips screwdriver can be used to remove/install them.

The three top brackets are welded to the Firewall
album

Top Center bracket is right above the heater
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Dash Assembly Removal

Dash assembly (LHD)

You will need to remove the dash assembly to remove the dash pad, troubleshoot wiring, or to replace/lubricate the wiper linkage. Having the dash out makes changing the radio easier, but you can alternatively do that by only removing the glove box to gain access. It also much easier to install a tachometer after removing the dash, but again that could be done by reaching up under the dash.

It would be a good idea to label each wire you remove with masking tape. Write on the tape what the wire is for so that when you put the dash back in you'll know which wire goes where. This is especially important for all the green wires (flashers and brake-pedal wires). If you get stuck, see the Wiring article but beware the wire colors vary for differents years.

It's easiest to remove the entire dash (with gauges, radio, etc) after separating the wiring harness from the firewall. I've done it by removing wires from dash/gauges etc. and leaving the harness in the car, but it's much easier to separate the harness first from the car, then remove the whole thing.

You don't need to remove the steering column plastic cover or the steering wheel, though it is recommended, so that the cover doesn't break while maneuvering the dash.

Overview

Here are BASIC OVERVIEW steps:

1. Disconnect battery
2. Disconnect interior wiring harness connectors from dash harness
3. Disconnect radio speakers and antenna cables
4. Remove Package Tray if equipped
5. Disconnect Speedometer cable from back of dash
6. Disconnect heater control
7. Unbolt dash assembly
8. Pull unit back and then out through passenger door

Detailed Steps

Here are DETAILED STEPS:

Step 1

1. Disconnect battery. There's live power in the dash assembly, so this is important
2. Reach up under dash and unscrew the speedometer cable from the housing
3. unbolt glove box: Open glove box door, then remove two tiny bottom screws, and two larger top screws. Leave the the latch bolted in. Pull the box out from behind
4. remove the round clip holding the glove-box door swing arm. Then remove the little plastic rectangle. Then set the door in a safe place, it scratches easily
5. Remove the two 12mm-head bolts holding the steering column to the dash assembly. The column will hang free just a bit, enough to get the dash out
6. remove the heater-defroster tubes (they simply pull free)
7. remove the ashtray
8. On driver's side a-pillar, unplug the door switch wire, and if equipped, speaker wires
9. unplug the ignition switch connector, and if equipped the two ACC wires

Step 2

1. unplug the two Turn Signal switch connectors, the Hazard flasher green wire (but not white wire), the two brake pedal switch wires (GY), and the two T/S Flasher wires (GW, GL)

   

   No. 2, No. 4 - Hazard and Turn Signal connectors

2. unplug speaker wires (L/Gray) and antenna wire through glovebox opening
3. Unplug passenger corner wiring (door switch wiring, and the plugs that come through the firewall)
4. Unplug the two wires for the heater (black, blue/white)
5. Remove the three dash-top machine screws (visible through windshield)

   

   Be careful, these are philips-head, and strip easily. Use a No. 1 stubby or a L-shaped screwdriver tool.

   

   NOTE: the center bottom bolt doesn't seem to be on some/all dashes

6. Remove the dash-to-A pillar bolts: One on left bottom of dash, other on right. 10mm head

   

   Dash-to-Pillar connector (far right, below No. 3)

7. Carefully pull dash away from firewall. Make sure the heater control levers are out of the slot
8. Carefully and slowly pull dash assembly out passenger door. While doing so, check to ensure wires and heater control are all free

Clean Up and Maintenance

Now that you have the dash out, it's the most convenient time for these tasks:

• Tighten heater hoses (four clamps: three on one side, one on the other)
• Ensure all the dash lights are working (see the Wiring article)
• Wipe dust away from firewall, pedal box, heater box, etc
• Lubricate the wiper linkage. This is a heim-joint/rose-joint type of system. Just put some general purpose grease on it as best you can and wipe off the excess.
• Align the dash defrost ducts. Mine had 1/8 gap. By loosing, moving and retightening, I've got a much better seal. Hopefully the heater will demist/defrost better now
• clean the heater ducts (if you feel like it)
• Lubricate pedal shaft
• Lubricate hood-opener (bonnet lever)
• Lubricate heater lever assembly (dry grease) and cables
• Lubricate accelerator pedal pivot point
• Wash dash with mild cleaning solution
• Remove dash pad and paint it with vinyl/upholstery paint

  flat black or or semi-gloss?

  satin black

Removing the Dash Pad

If you need to ...

The dash pad is held on by eight small screws on inside of dash (four near top, four near bottom).

But first you need to remove the "Cluster Lid" (gauge assembly) ...

Cluster Lid Removal and Replacement

The "Cluster Lid" can be removed with the dash in the car, if you remove the steering column plastic cover. Some say you need to remove the steering wheel as well, but it is not necessary. Of course it is easiest of all if the the dash assembly is out of the car.

cluster gauge

Removing the instrument panel cluster lid is not too difficult. It is needed to replace the Speedometer as well as the fuel gauge, temperature gauge, or instrument voltage regulator. It is also recommended when replacing burned out bulbs (though you can replace the bulbs without removing the cluster).

Testing lights temp

When replacing the Clock or Tachometer it is also recommended. Sometimes you can do it without removing the cluster, but the wiring is not easy to get to.

Instructions

The only tool needed to remove and replace the cluster is:

• No. 1 (small) philips head screwdriver

Instructions

• Remove top half of steering column shroud

  

• Remove the two heater control knobs. The fan knob has a tiny philips screw on the bottom. The cold-hot lever may also have a screw (I've seen it both ways) so if you don't see a screw, simply pull the knob off

  

• Pull the Radio knobs off. Then remove the shaft nuts. Remove faceplate

  

• Behind dash
  • Unplug the round cluster wiring connector. On the back of the gauge assembly, pull the main round gauge connector off. Just rock it off, there is no screw holding it on

    

  • If the Speedo cable is still attached, reach up under the dash and unscrew it
  • At the bottom of the gauge cluster (behind dash face) are two screws holding it to the bottom of the dash metal. (if you can't find them, wait until the last step. When the cluster is loose you'll see how the bottom is fastened to the dash frame)

    

    Cluster bottom screw (above connector No. 5)

    Unscrew both these screws (only one is visible in the photo). You may need to lie on your back with a flashlight to see these. Use a No. 1 Philips stubby screwdriver.

    • look for screw below tachometer

      The other screw is below the multi-gauge (on other side of steering column)

• Remove 4 knobs from face. IMPORTANT: there are a flat washer on the back side of each switches, don't lose it
  • Choke knob (if equipped). TIP: for the choke cable, pull it all the way out, grip the shaft with pliers, then push-n-turn the knob
  • Wiper knob and nut. Simply push in and turn counter-clockwise 1/4 turn. Then pull off. Unscrew the nut with your fingers.

    

  • Headlight switch knob and nut. Removes same way as wiper switch.
  • Cigarette lighter. Reach up from under dash and unscrew the housing (unscrew the collar of the lighter from the back). Then the lighter body pulls straight out of the lid. Pull the L (blue) wire off the cigarette lighter when you can see it.

Finally:

1. Open glovebox door to prevent the dash from scratching the side of the door.
2. Push the headlight switch and wiper switch through
3. Tilt the top of the cluster out. Pull towards you and up. It should come right out.

Reinstall

This is actually the hardest part ...

Fit the dash assembly back into place through passenger door:

1. Place dash assembly into the general area, then make sure the heater levers come through the slots before setting it fully on the three firewall brackets
2. bottom of dash fits between pedal box and steering column brackets
3. The hardest part for me was putting the two bolts back in for the heater control. These are screwed in behind the dash, so a mirror is helpful. If the radio is out, it makes it easier. In any case, remove the ashtray base (three screws), so you can reach up under the lever assembly. Use a #1 phillips (large screwdriver) to avoid stripping the bolt heads.
4. hook up the wires
5. put the three dash-top machine screws in, loosely
6. put the right and left dash-to-A pillar bolts in, then tighten the dash-top screws
7. replace and tighten the two 12mm-head steering column bolts
8. reach up under dash and screw speedometer cable into back of housing
9. Reconnect the battery, test the lights and ignition

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