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The stock 1200 front-disc/rear-drum system was good for 1971. In fact, stopping power was better than most 'muscle cars' of the era. However, fading under repeated hard stops was a problem as these were not ventilated rotors. But compared to modern cars ... well, they don't really compare at all -- even the cheapest new import car has better brakes than the 1973 Datsun 1200.
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Overview
There are two easy ways to get better brakes. This article will discuss these methods:
- Better brake pads, using premium materials
- Simple brakes swaps requiring no machining
There is also more complicated methods, which allows you to have world-class brakes, as good as any new car. For details see Brake Swaps.
Better Brake Pads
Better brake pads can make a big difference. If you are a racer you know this. But for a street car, if you live in a hilly or mountainous area and your brakes fade, consider new pads.
Spend the money and put something good in the coupe- Pagid or Mintex 1155's etc and if you can't get them to fit your caliper then put something else on that you can get a good quality pad for.And if anyone tells you that they are no good on the street thats simply not true - the new generation compounds work just fine from cold. Sure they get much better when hot, but are more than adequate for driving around the streets on.
reference: BENDIX ULTIMATE FRONT PADS
Brake Booster
A booster will not improve the braking ability of the car. But you may want one so that it is a bit easier to press the brake pedal.
See main article: Brake Booster Swaps
1200 Brakes
1200 brakes work fairly well if in good shape. The drum brakes will stop as quickly as discs -- IF adjusted correctly.
1200 Disc Swap
If your 1200 has all-drum brakes, take note that disc brakes are:
- easier to work on
- More resistant to fading -- safer after repeated stops (they dissipate heat far better)
Swapping 1200 drums for discs is easy if you obtain the entire strut/spring/brake assemblies for both sides. Just unbolt, bolt in the new assembly and bleed the front brakes.
Brake Warning Switch
Don't forget to use a brake warning switch.
Master Cylinder Choice
If you change to all front-discs, you can either use:
- master cylinder and brake-line "splitter" (warning light switch)
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- The "tandem" cylinder is recommended (it has two reservoirs)
- IMPORTANT: Don't use a single outlet cylinder. It is less safe as all four brakes can fail at once. A double-outlet cylinder is safer
- Alternatively (though not recommended) just remove the check-valve out of the front-feed outlet of the drum-brake master cylinder:
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- Alternatively (though not recommended) just remove the check-valve out of the front-feed outlet of the drum-brake master cylinder:
Remote Brake Cylinder
If you are fitting a larger engine or carbs so there is no room for the stock brake cylinder, consider a remote cylinder setup.
no brake cylinder?
Discussion: Wilwood Pedal Boxes has anyone fitted them to their 1200?
- Nissan c20 van (Vanette) ???
- Ford Escort?
- PBR VH44 remote booster
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Remote Filler
To gain clearance on LHD cars with twin carbs, use a remote filler setup from circa 1976 Datsun F10.
Underdash
Reverse-Mounted Master Cylinder
Fitting an under-dash brake master cylinder is sometimes done to LHD 1200s so we can fit dual sidedraft carbs. It is legal in USA (very few states have any kind of mechanical inspection).
As you can see, LHD cars have little room for both the brake cylinder (on left side of engine compartment) when bigger carbs are fitted:
Take a master cylinder mount from a 510 and weld it to the top of the 1200's steering colum support. Then weld an extension to the top of the brake pedal and makee a rod to connect the master cylinder from the brake pedal.
Changing the position of the rod from below pivot point to above changes the direction from pushing out toward front of car to pushing out towards rear.
280zx master cylinder reverse mounted under dash
- A remote fluid reservoir would be easiest (e.g. Datsun F10 style)
- It only take a minute to remove dash for access
Sometimes the same is done when fitting large engines or turbo setups which leave no room for the stock master cylinder.
For more ideas, see Clutch master cylinder
Brake Bias
So you've changed brake types, now has the front brakes are locking up well before the rears come into play. How can this be cured?
There are options for changing the brake bias:
- Change rear brake wheel cylinders (larger or smaller). Alternate sizes are available from Nissan motorsports. Or from stock applications. For example, the 510 rear cylinders are 7/8, but bolt in place of the stock 1200 13/16 cylinders. Note that 1200s with drum brakes already have 7/8 rears.
- Use an appropriate factory bias valve (aka NP-valve or "proportioning valve"). Note that Datsun 1200s don't use one, while B210 and B310 NP-valves are not part of the brake line "splitter" (brake line warning switch)
- Maybe the easiest would be to buy a brake bias controller valve.
- These are available thru your local high performance shop or mail order
thru Jeg's or Summit, etc. for around $50 USD.
- Some Volvos also have an adjustable valve you could use
'Changing master cylinders may change pedal feel but will not change bias. A master with larger diameter cylinder will result in a harder pedal, but less pedal travel. By contrast, a smaller diameter master cylinder will reduce required pedal foot pressure, but will increase pedal travel for a given result. Most Nissan master cylinders from the same era (1971-1982) interchange. You can locate almost any size with a cruise through your local junk yard (sizes are cast on
the side of the cylinder).
Note that B110s did not use a proportioning valve. B310 used one (called NP-Valve). The NP-valve is separate from the brake circuit switch (brake line splitter). It is functionally normally if -- during a 50km/h quick stop -- the rear the wheels lock simultaneously with front wheels, or front wheels lock first. Danger if rear wheels lock first.
| brake cylinders | B110 | 1977 US B210 | 1980 US B310 (Disc-AN20) | 1980 Canada A12A (Disc-AN18) |
| Proportioning valve | not used | yes | 1,961 kPa x 0.4 psi | 1,961 kPa x 0.4 psi |
| Booster (Master-Vac) | not used | ? | M60 6-in diameter 135mm rod length (flange-to-pedal) | M60 6-in diameter |
| Master diameter | 11/16 inch | 3/4 inch | 13/16 | 13/16 |
| Front cylinder diameter | 1.894 inch (drum brakes: 11/16) | 2.012 inch | 2.012 inch | 1.894 inch |
| Rotor diameter | 212.5 mm | 245mm | 245mm | 220mm |
| Pad (width x length) | 42.5 x 53.1 mm | 41.2 x 63.4 mm | 41.2 x 61.4 mm | 42.0 x 56.8 mm |
| Pad thickness | 10.3 | 10.0 | 10.0 | 10.3 |
| Total front braking area (discs) | 14.0 sq in | 16.2 sq in | ~14.6 | ~13.8 |
| Total front braking area (drums) | 42.3 sq in | n/a | n/a | n/a |
| Rear cylinder diameter | disc brake models: 11/16 inch (all-drum models: 13/16) | 13/16 inch | 13/16 | 13/16 |
| Drum diameter | 8.0 inch | 8.0 inch | 8.0 | 8.0 |
| Drum width | 1.378 inch | 1.378 inch | 1.378 | 1.378 |
| Total rear braking area | 42.3 sq in | 42.3 sq in | 42.3 | 42.3 |
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Large Pad
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Small Pad B110, B310 A12A Canada: Beck/Arnley 0820100 Premium Organic, Beck/Arnley "AXXIS Deluxe" Organic, RAYBESTOS PGD104 PG Plus Organic, ACDELCO 17D104 Durastop Organic, Wearever Silver D41, Bendix D104
- B110, 1973 - 1974 CIVIC, 1976 - 1978 Datsun F10, B310 Canada A12A