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i didn't think this was the case because depending on how much you are loading up the outside tyre it depends how much the tyre is going to roll off the rim and also how much the body rolls and stands the tyre up. if you're tyre is not getting loaded enough and not rolling off the rim to sit flat or you don't have enough body roll for the amount of camber you're running you will not be getting the max grip from it by having the tyre sit flat to the ground if that makes sense. if anyone sees any flaws in this logic please let me know.

We run 3 degrees neg and also some castor (not sure how much as it hasn't been wheel alligned since) .To get 3 degrees we had to use The B310 balljoints and further slot the camber tops. We will be slotting the tops more as I want to try 5 degrees neg both on the dirt and on the track
Cheers
Bob

Can someone please explain to me how this bolt works? I cant understand what is 'offset' about it... the way I imagine it, the shaft of the bolt will go through the crossmember and the LCA bush, and the washer bits will sit on the outside and look pretty while you have the same camber. Or does it work differently?




edit: or does it HAVE to be used in conjunction with the slotted Xmember in the other pic? If so I can see how it works.

My car just had new holes drilled further out on the crossmember, it seemed to work fine.

im pretty sure it must be used with the slotted xmember.

Contact andos (andy is his name)
He sold me a set of adjustable camber plates and they are great! well made too.

i was always told 2 degrees negative is about right on a fast road car.

tyrie, the IRS volkswagen beetle uses this technique on the rear suspension.

The big welded-on washers stop the bolt from moving in the slot, which would certainly happen if you only slotted the crossmember and used normal bolts and washers.

Another note, people are saying to get adjustable strut tops. These only helps to get a little bit more camber and/or castor. To get any REAL camber, you need to run smaller diameter springs, as well as the adjustable strut tops.

With the standard springs, the available adjustment will be restricted inside the strut tower by the large original spring diameter.

Using S13 camber plates in my ute.
Cut down struts and small shocks/springs, get about 4.5* or so max. All on stock lower arms etc.

But then again who wants lots of camber and to be flailing around on huge springs and a massive ride height anyway

as cheater_5 said, S13 camber tops do the job and are cheap. might have to get the hole in the top part of the strut top opened up more so you can get max adjustment as on an s13 they adjust in the opposite direction to a 1200 to get camber

When I was using the car for Auotcross (Gymkhana) and roadracing the -1.5 degrees of camber worked fine. This was with Yokohama A08R tires, the outside 1/2 of which are almost like slicks.
The suspension settings in the comp prep manual work well, I'm not a big fan of huge amounts of negative camber as it always seem to make a car darty under heavy breaking. Also note I tend to be the king of trail braking at track days I'll have students and intermediate drivers that will complain about understeer in their car but I won't have an issue.................now I do have a buddy whose a former SCCA national champ and he runs a ton of negative camber on his Autocross Civic, the car is not real powerful so he tries to be on the gas as often as possible and the oversteer keeps the car rotating while on the gas. The car is undrivable as a street car. (if you brake and turn it will snap spin)

Tom