I made the adaptor for the T50 box today. Cutting the two halves and machining them to the right hights was straight forward but the welding was a Pain! so many impurities in the cast made it a dog of a job.

Soooo, My preference would be to use a box like the T5 and make an adaptor plate to use the auto bellhousing. This would be the easiest and cheepest.

How much are the half price gearboxes at pick a part?

D, If there is a late model T5 from a comm or falcon i`ll get you to let me know. i believe the later ones were better.

That didnt take long! or take much convincing, Ay Caramba!!!!
Ill check Tomorrow for you when getting the Stumpy.

***Falcon T5s
All the E-series cars have the same main case and extension housing. Input shaft lengths vary from I6 to V8, with the v8 being about 30mm longer. They are not interchangable. All input shafts have the standard Ford 10 spline arrangement.

Gear ratios varied also between I6 and V8 with the I6 having aither 3.25 or a 3.35 first and the V8 having a 2.95 first. The helix changed at some point in the 1990s, as did the bearing on the back of the input shaft (from needle roller to taper roller), and the introduction of a synchro/brake on reverse gear for fast crunch-free engagement.

AU I6s and V8s used the same inputshaft and main cases as earlier models, but the rear extension housings were 50mm longer. V8 ratios were definitely the same as earlier models (the gears are interchangable), but not sure on I6.

The strength of the boxes improved significantly over time, and the parts that are available new now are a lot better than the original items. Heat is what kills the boxes - run a cooler if it is worked hard

Ratios:
XF-EB 6 Cyl 3.5, 2.14, 1.39, 1, 0.73
ED-EL 6 Cyl 3.25, 1.99, 1.29, 1, 0.72
AU 6 Cyl not sure but I think the same as EL

EB-AUIII V8 2.95, 1.95, 1.34, 1, 0.73
EB XR8 Sprint 3.25, 1.99, 1.29, 1, 0.72 (same as I6, rare - used a special input shaft, which I have one of lying around in a box in the shed - goes straight into a later EF/EL I6 box with the revised helix angle and taper bearing)***

different quotes from www.bmsc.com.au

Ratios from the v8 2.95 is the best but the input shaft is supposedly 30mm longer
however the 1st v8 gear could be used in the 6 cyl box.

here is a box available from JEGS performance in the states check out the ratios
Esp on the overdrive>>>> 0.63 !!!! and easy reverse instead of screaming 2.76 !!
1st 2.95, 2nd 1.94, 3rd 1.34, 4th 1.00, 5th .63, Reverse 2.76

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  2.95, 1.94, 1.34, 1.00, 0.63, Rev 2.76.jpg (10.36 KB)

great info there D,

The AUIII V8 Box would be ideal! But probably the hardest to find!

I`d say if you could find any with the longer input shaft would do for the exersise. Or maybe if you could measure the 6 cyl units bell housing length., we might get away with it.
We could sneak a bit of length by puting the spigot bush in the flywheel instead of the crank if we had too.

I`ll have another go with welding one. But i`ll have to get a watercooled tig torch and special gas sheild. Im a bit broke at the mo.


I dont think we will have heat dramas.

The other great thing about these boxes is you can get close ratio gearsets and quick shifters from a few different suppliers.

hey simon,
with the L series, CA and SR 5 speed boxes. they all used the same sort of front housing/bellhousing, with exception of the stanza and 180b sss models and other earlier import models.

so you could use any of the L CA or SR front parts with a cut and shut A series bellhousing and you would have a heap of different boxes that it could be used on

they only real differences between the front housings is that the later boxes, CA18de/t SR RB ect, used a larger front bearing on the second gearset shaft(one below the input) and they had a larger diameter front gear behind that bearing
not a huge problem when using an L series front housing on the box, you either need to enlarger the bearing hole to suit or use the smaller L series bearing and do a bit of diegrinding inside for gear clearance

but apart from that you could essentially have an adaptor that can pretty much be used an any RWD nissan box between 1980 to about 95
which is L, Z, CA, FJ, SR, RB maybe more that i cant think of

Simon, the Getrag info you want is,

From mating face of Getrag box to end of input shaft is 185mm.

Nick the 71 series boxes you mention all have unitary bellhousing/front sections.
Sounds like a good plan for a cut and shut for the earlier boxes but the late
RWD boxes are very sought after.
The T series is also sought after but easier to find usually.

I wonder the shift position how it affects 1200 compared to 1000s
if the chevy S10 one is used?

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  Chevy S10 GMC S15 Borg Warner T5 5 Spd.jpg (64.32 KB)


  s10 t5 rear.JPG (54.49 KB)

Thanks Lemonhead, The auto bellhousing is 151mm. so if i used a 20mm plate it would be perfect! could use the crank spigot too. being only 20mm i`d have to use good ally.

Does someone have a T5 to measure?
Looks like 185mm would be a minimum length to use an adaptor plate and auto bell housing.

Nick, I like your thinking with the Nissan boxes! I`ll do one of these when i get the bits for the welder. The adaptor plate would be the easiest tho. Then if someone wanted a kit i`d only have to ship a plate, crossmember and clutch bits. Rather than cut up an A series 4 speed aswell as get someone to send me there Nissan box for welding.

No luck Today Simon at PAP in Campbellfield.
The T5 is a sought after item :(
Id like to use the 60 series box from L series if you are willing to
to cut and shut a ca front section onto one.

Any one thought of using the 5cog out of the corolla K series say KE70 ect. They have got to be like bums. I have one in my rolla KE38 and it is tough little unit. Should handle warm A series no worries.

Datto frog, I think that is the T50 box. someone might correct me tho.

D, I`ll fix up the welder, then i`ll be right to do another cut and shut. But a lot of time goes into setting up for a gearbox so i`d want to do a few. Are the 60 series strong and common?