Yep, the figures don't tell the whole story do they l18b110. It transforms the car makes it feel alive like it should be stock.

^ what he said l18 1200's are a vary fun car, and once the l-series is in there are so many options with a nostalgic engine

What's the weight difference between an L18 (heck I'll take L16 or L20 series and an A15? Any alteration to the handling characteristics, or too minor to be an issue?

What I found weighing using 2 different bathroom scale me holding them and then subtracting my weight.

A12 Bare 70kg (30kg block bare) early front dizzie
A15 Bare 80kg (36kg block bare)
L16 Bare 86kg (37.5kg block bare)
CA18de Bare ??? (38kg block bare)
L18 Bare 98-100kg (46-48kg block bare) siamese bores
L20 Bare ???kg (48-52kg block bare) siamese bores

Over the years on here I initially didnt like the L series for its weight increase but it seems to be a good match for the 1200 providing rear end is also balanced with heavier diff and battery moved to the back along with other weight juggling.

I havent run into an L18 block that isnt siamesed so most of them Ive weighed and Dave on Ozdat has done seem to be over 44kg which would come down with going from 85mm to 87.5mm bore but the L16 is definitely easy on weight and not too bad with L18 crank and 85mm bores.

The Ultimate budget performance L series would be L16 or L18 bottom end with ka24de head like a few have done and someone else is doing atm. The Ka24de heads have factory potential that is hard to ignore with a good bottom end.

See my engine COmbo does make sense. Just need sort the set up but as you saw Dave much improved after Simon tuned it

If you up the rear axle and put the battery in the back, the L engine is still going to be fine. I think it would be hard to declare an A15 equal to an L16. You might be able to get the A15 and the L16 to the same horsepower points with the same effort, but the L16 has the advantage due to popularity. Plus, even if you DID get an A15 to a healthy high performance, you won't reliably be able to get the power to the ground; there isn't a bolt-in transmission to support it. The L series is simple; get an FS5W71B/C transmission and bolt it up. Done. No cut and shut, no adapter plate, nothing.

The A series has it's place. Plenty of folks build them and successfully race them. I just think that unless you get creative with your transmission options, you're driving a ticking time bomb.

Sure, L engine, bigger gearbox, stronger axle adds weight, but it also adds reliability.

Just my 2 cents, no need to get all emotional.

my L series 1200 had 53:47 weight distribution. That's better than they are standard with the A series.

The bigger heavier box in the middle and bigger diff is a good thing for handling I would have thought as its all low hung weight. Most of the weight on L series is down low as heads are very light compared to other OHC donks.
BRE had some crazy L16 / L18 race donks that outlasted the others back in their day, even recently an L series 1600 just pipped a ca18de B10 in U2LSS. L series is still winning today :) - The A series is a good economy donk and had its success in Japan for enduros but for budget hp tq its pricey unless cleverly boosted.

I remember Baz of Datsport having some combo of L13 cranked long rod L20B on methanol that revved to 9.5-10k for close to 400+ hp in speedway w/ little work on internals & F1 like rod stroke ratio.

Just finished pulling apart a ca20e from a gazelle it weighs 34.5kg with maincaps bare lined with oil and crud. Nissan makes some light cast iron engines.

Even though I like the A-series as I mentioned in the previous post the L18 is in a different league; a street L16 with 15 more HP even with the boost in torgue for me wouldn't be worth it but an L18 would make it worthwhile.

As for the weights: An H190 with alloy housing is going to weigh very close to the non alloy H145, You're taking 30lbs more for the gear box and maybe 60lb for the engine...........................100lbs tops. Upgrade to a lighter battery ( I saved 14lbs using a newer one meat for a Miata), headers, lighter flywheel, fiberglass hood etc and you could probably shave off 40 or 50lbs if it mattered to you.

Again I don't think there is a wrong choice A15 or L18. I like the revvy A-series because my racing started on buzz bomb 125cc GP bikes but it's hard not to love the grunt of an L18.


Tom