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- | The Datsun 1200's A12 engine uses a standard type oil pump. The oil should be changed every 3,000 to 5,000 miles. | + | The Datsun 1200's A12 engine uses a standard gerotor type oil pump. It is self-priming. The oil should be changed every 3,000 to 5,000 miles. |
= Overview = | = Overview = | ||
- | Also see: Oil pressure indicator lamp: [[Wiring]] | + | {{Photo|m-90a.jpg|Datsun%201200/Parts2}} {{PB2|j451|datsun12001||DSC01672.jpg}} |
- | + | ||
- | http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm219/ddgonzal/Datsun%201200/Parts2/m-90a.jpg | + | |
- | + | ||
- | [http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j451/datsun12001/DSC01672.jpg http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j451/datsun12001/th_DSC01672.jpg] | + | |
- | + | ||
- | [http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm219/ddgonzal/Datsun%201200/Parts2/ghgh0038md.jpg oil pump] | + | |
- | <br><img size=400>http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm219/ddgonzal/Datsun%201200/Parts2/ghgh0038md.jpg</img> | + | |
= Oil Temperature = | = Oil Temperature = | ||
- | Also See: [[Oil Pump Coolers]] | ||
- | |||
- | |||
The oil temperature is controlled by the engine coolant temperature. As long as the engine coolant ("water") does not overheat, neither will the oil. Only a very few high performance cars have a separate oil cooler. So this means: | The oil temperature is controlled by the engine coolant temperature. As long as the engine coolant ("water") does not overheat, neither will the oil. Only a very few high performance cars have a separate oil cooler. So this means: | ||
keep your coolant temp low, and your oil temp will be happy. | keep your coolant temp low, and your oil temp will be happy. | ||
Count on the oil temp to be about 20 F degrees hotter. So here is a good street performance equation: | Count on the oil temp to be about 20 F degrees hotter. So here is a good street performance equation: | ||
- | * [[Thermostat]]: 180 F degrees | + | * [[Thermostat]]: 180 F degrees |
- | * Oil temp will run about 200 F degrees | + | * Oil temperature: will run about 200 F degrees |
+ | |||
At this temperature, the good quality regular oil (inexpensive) will perform as good as the expensive synthetics in a street car. It is high temps that ruin regular oil whereas the synthetic oil can take high temps OK. | At this temperature, the good quality regular oil (inexpensive) will perform as good as the expensive synthetics in a street car. It is high temps that ruin regular oil whereas the synthetic oil can take high temps OK. | ||
- | Now if you are racing or towing there is more to talk about. | + | Now if you are racing or towing there is more to talk about. See: [[Oil Pump Coolers]]. |
- | = Engine oil capacity = | + | = Engine Oil Capacity = |
- | * Oil pan: 2-7/8 U.S. qts., 2-3/8 Imper. qts. (2.7 L) | + | See [[Oil_pan#Oil_Capacity|Oil Capacity]] |
- | * Oil filter: 1-1/8 U.S. pints, 1 Imper. pint. (0.54 L) | + | |
- | + | ||
- | = Oil Pressure Sender = | + | |
- | Nissan part number | + | |
- | 25240-89910 SWITCH ASSY-OIL PRESSURE $17 USD | + | |
- | See [[Switch Part Numbers]] | + | |
+ | = Oil Pressure = | ||
From the 1973 [[FSM|factory service manual]]: | From the 1973 [[FSM|factory service manual]]: | ||
- | * Oil pressure at idle (650 RPM ): 13-17 psi | ||
- | * Regulator valve spring | ||
- | ** Free Length: 43.49 mm (1.71 inch) | ||
- | ** Pressured Length: 30.3 mm (1.19 inch) | ||
- | * Regulator opening pressure: 54-60 psi | ||
- | * [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=19998 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/19998.jpg] | + | * Oil pressure at idle (650 RPM ): 13-17 psi |
+ | * Regulator valve spring | ||
+ | Free Length: 43.49 mm (1.71 inch) | ||
+ | Pressured Length: 30.3 mm (1.19 inch) | ||
+ | * Regulator opening pressure: 54-60 psi | ||
- | Thread Size - NPT: 1/8" x 28 British Std. Pipe | + | = Oil Usage = |
- | (BSPT Tapered) | + | It is normal to add some oil between the oil changes. Usually a quart every 1,500 miles is OK. A quart every 500 miles indicates either a serious leak, or "oil burning" (bad rings) in the engine. |
- | Terminal Type: Bullet, Male | + | |
- | Operating Pressure - PSI: 3 - 9 psi | + | |
- | == Interchange == | + | = Oil Pressure Sender = |
- | The stock Datsun 1200 oil pressure switch fits A-series and some L-series, Z-series, E-series, Diesel and CA-series engines. Also fits certain GM, IHC and Isuzu engines. | + | {{Main|Oil Pressure Sender}} |
- | Datsun 1200 sender uses bullet connector. | + | {{Album!|27746}} |
- | Buy at [http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1208821,parttype,4588 RockAuto.com] | + | = Oil Guages = |
- | <br>http://www.rockauto.com/info/at/C2CC0185602614888812.jpg | + | Oil Temperature or Oil Pressure gauge can be added. |
- | <br>NOTE: Some other Datsun senders use a spade connector or a screw connector | + | |
- | Nissan 25240-89902, 25240-89910 | + | See Main Article: [[Oil_Pressure_Sender#Mechanical_Oil_Pressure_Gauge|Oil Gauge]] |
- | GM 94118755, 94312940 | + | |
- | IHC 478097-C1 | + | |
- | Isuzu 8-94118-755-0, 8-94312-940-0 | + | |
- | == For Pressure Gauge == | + | = Oil Specifications = |
- | Other Datsuns came with a pressure gauge, and used this switch: | + | See [[Engine Oil Specifications]] |
- | + | ||
- | Buy at [http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1210329,parttype,4588 RockAuto.com] | + | |
- | <br>[http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm219/ddgonzal/Datsun%20Misc/1S6571.jpg http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm219/ddgonzal/Datsun%20Misc/th_1S6571.jpg] | + | |
- | <br>Datsun 720 Pickup | + | |
- | + | ||
- | Thread Size 1/8-28 ISO Tapered Thread | + | |
- | Switch to close at 3-10 PSI | + | |
- | 0-2 PSI - 75 Ohms min | + | |
- | 5.5 PSI - 44-60 Ohms | + | |
- | 30 PSI - 27-41 Ohms | + | |
- | 80 PSI - 7-20 Ohms | + | |
- | + | ||
- | = Oil Pressure Gauge = | + | |
- | The oil pressure switch threads is 1/8 BSPT (british standard pipe tapered). It screws directly into the oil pump housing. | + | |
- | + | ||
- | If you instead thread a Tee connector, you can fit both the sensor and a separate gauage. Tees are avaialable in the usual auto supply stores such as Repco or Oreillys. | + | |
- | + | ||
- | Tee fitted to oil pump [Old Method, no longer recommended] | + | |
- | <br>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=5917 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/5917.jpg] [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=230 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/230.jpg] | + | |
- | <br>Right: this engine has the Tee (and an [[Oil Pump Coolers|oil cooler]]) | + | |
- | + | ||
- | New Method | + | |
- | <br>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=21581 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/21581.jpg] | + | |
- | + | ||
- | A word of caution with this: they tend to break, perhaps due the weight of the sender at the end of the tee piece and the vibration of the engine. The solution is to use a braided hose from the oil sender hole out to the bodywork, and then mounted the tee with senders in place. | + | |
- | + | ||
- | <blockquote><hr>Datsun Nationals 2005 .. I think 3 different cars had their brass t-piece fail resulting in oil all over wakefield track. Definitely mount the brass fitting on the bodywork, not the engine. | + | |
- | + | ||
- | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=367890#forumpost367890 dattodude]<hr></blockquote> | + | |
- | + | ||
- | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=15455 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/15455.jpg] | + | |
= Oil Usage = | = Oil Usage = | ||
- | + | See [[Engine Oil Specifications]] | |
- | It is normal to add some oil between the oil changes. Usually a quart every 1,500 miles is OK. A quart every 500 miles indicates either a serious leak, or "oil burning" (bad rings) in the egine. | + | |
- | + | ||
- | = Oil Specifications = | + | |
- | See [[Engine Oil Specifications]] | + | |
= Interchangeability = | = Interchangeability = | ||
- | All A-series oil pumps are interchangeable except early A10 models. New pumps work with early A10 connection rods. | + | All A-series oil pumps are interchangeable in any A12/A12A/A13/A14/A15 engine, except the early [[A10 Engine]] oil pump. New pumps will clear the early A10 [[Connecting Rods]]. |
- | + | ||
* connecting rod cap strengthened with 1mm longer bolt boss starting with A10-728641 | * connecting rod cap strengthened with 1mm longer bolt boss starting with A10-728641 | ||
* Therfore, Oil pump driveshaft decreased 1.5 mm to clear the new cap design | * Therfore, Oil pump driveshaft decreased 1.5 mm to clear the new cap design | ||
- | |||
= Part Numbers = | = Part Numbers = | ||
- | Also see: [[Oil Filter]] | + | For a comprehensive lists of Oil Pump parts for the 1200, see [[Oil Pump Part Numbers]]. |
+ | <br>{{Photo|010-01.jpg|Datsun%201200/USA}} | ||
+ | Nissan | ||
+ | 15010-H9701 ASSY-PUMP OIL WITH OUT OIL FILTER <> 15010-H6200 <> 15010-H1000 $114 USD | ||
+ | * Fits A10/A12/A12A/A13/A14/A15 | ||
+ | * Fits B10/B110/B120/B210/B310/C120 and F10/N10 | ||
+ | * Filter points down | ||
+ | {{Photo|m-90a.jpg|Datsun%201200/Parts2}} | ||
- | == USA == | + | 15010-M3001 PUMP ASSY-OIL <> 15010-M3000 $145 USD |
- | B110 RAW LIST | + | * FWD N10 "Datsun 310" "Datsun Pulsar" |
- | 15010-H9701 ASSY-PUMP OIL WITH OUT OIL FILTER | + | * RWD 1200 1989- |
- | 15010-H6200 ASSY-PUMP OIL WITH OUT OIL FILTER | + | * RWD B120, C22, C120 |
- | 15010-H1000 ASSY-PUMP OIL WITH OUT OIL FILTER | + | |
- | 15020-H1025 ASSY-SHAFT DRIVE OIL PUMP | + | |
- | 15020-H1005 ASSY-SHAFT DRIVE OIL PUMP | + | |
- | 15025-18003 GASKET-OIL PUMP | + | |
- | 15132-H1000 ASSY-VALVE OIL REGULATOR | + | |
- | 08310-53010 SET-BOLT BODY TO COVER | + | |
- | 08915-13510 WASHER-SPRING | + | |
- | 15066-18000 GASKET-OIL PUMP TO CYLINDER BLOCK | + | |
- | 08915-13810 WASHER-LOCK | + | |
- | 15036-18000 BOLT-OIL PUMP | + | |
- | 08110-85510 BOLT | + | |
- | 15050-H1000 ASSY-STRAINER OIL | + | |
- | 15053-18000 GASKET-OIL STRAINER | + | |
- | 08110-82010 BOLT | + | |
- | 08915-13810 WASHER-LOCK | + | |
- | == Nissan Competition Parts == | + | Aftermarket [http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1208483,parttype,5564 RockAuto] |
- | See main article: [[Competition Oil Pump]] | + | Sealed Power 22441908 $39 USD |
+ | ITM 057140 [http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1209912,parttype,5564 $52 USD] | ||
- | = Hybrid High Volume Pump = | + | === Cherry === |
- | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=6233 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/6233.jpg] [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=6261 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/6261.jpg] [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=10266 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/10266.jpg] [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=10267 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/10267.jpg] | + | 15010-M0100 <> 15010-M |
+ | * For FWD E10 "Nissan Cherry" "Datsun Cherry" | ||
+ | * Filter points up | ||
- | Use the [[L|L-series engine]] oil pump rotor and stator, which is exactly the same as A-series parts, but longer. This requires a spacer to make up the difference. It also requires modifying the shaft. Use the larger diameter L-series shaft pressed through the rotor and re-pin it for the A-series gear. Run a 1/2" reamer through the A series housing to make the L-shaft fit. | + | = Strainer = |
+ | The oil pump pickup tube has an integrated strainer. | ||
- | The stock pump works up to 10,000 RPM, so this is not needed for high RPM use. | + | See main article: [[Oil pan#Pickup Tube]] |
- | But if you run loose tolerances in a race engine, or you run a cross drilled crank with full circle grooved main bearings, then extra volume may well be just what you need. Also modding the rocker shaft for increased oiling requires more volume. | + | {{Photo!|15050-18001.jpg}} |
- | High-volume is more important than high-pressure because it ensures oiling. The NISMO pump uses high-pressure (100psi) which will also work up to a point, and is far simpler, only requiring shims on the pressure valve. But the better, more expensive option -- if needed -- is the high-volume pump. Most built A-series engines do not need either high-pressure nor high-volume pumps. | + | = Nissan Competition Parts = |
+ | See main article: [[Competition Oil Pump]] | ||
- | If your engine is worked hard at high temperatures which results in a measured rise in oil temps, then use an oil cooler to fix the problem. That is much better than simply increasing pressure or volume to compensate. | + | = Hybrid High Volume Pump = |
- | + | See main article: [[High Capacity Oil Pump]] | |
- | = Is High Volume Needed? = | + | |
- | Increased pump volume will cut the time it take for oil pressure to come up at start up, especially when using oil coolers that drain back to the sump when the engine is switched off. | + | |
- | + | ||
- | Also useful when fitting accessories to an engine which effectively create a leak in the pressure side of the oil system (Example: a turbo - especially the foating bearing type). These will bring the standard pump closer to the point of not being able to maintain good oil presure. | + | |
- | + | ||
- | A small volume reserve is good insurance angainsed increased bearing clearances as the engine wears and if a leek occurs (maybe an oil cooler line) oil pressure to the engine bearings is more likely to be maintained (hopefully you realise there is a problem before the sump empties!) Some have reported that the Datsun Competition two stage pump on turbo engine only just has enough presure when the oil is hot and at idle (10 PSI) and that is with a ball bearing turbo that needs a lot less oil than a floating bearing type. But in general the reserve capacity of the standard A series pump has enough capacity to maintain good oil pressure with a turbo and hot oil. | + | |
- | + | ||
- | Also, performance motors are generally built with clearances purposely on the large side, thus more leakage of oil when operating and the risk of dropping pressure. Unused capacity from a high volume pump is just returned to the sump via the pressure relief valve. There is extra capacity should you ever need it, but the downside is the extra power required to drive it due to higher pumping losses and thus the load on the cam/engine. | + | |
- | + | ||
- | Baffled sump is to help keep the oil in the bottom of the sump even with high G-forces of racing. So a high volume pump is not needed for that. | + | |
- | [[Category:Engine Lubrication System]] | + | [[Category:Engine Lubrication System]]{{End}} |
Current revision
The Datsun 1200's A12 engine uses a standard gerotor type oil pump. It is self-priming. The oil should be changed every 3,000 to 5,000 miles.
Contents |
Overview
Oil Temperature
The oil temperature is controlled by the engine coolant temperature. As long as the engine coolant ("water") does not overheat, neither will the oil. Only a very few high performance cars have a separate oil cooler. So this means:
keep your coolant temp low, and your oil temp will be happy.
Count on the oil temp to be about 20 F degrees hotter. So here is a good street performance equation:
* Thermostat: 180 F degrees * Oil temperature: will run about 200 F degrees
At this temperature, the good quality regular oil (inexpensive) will perform as good as the expensive synthetics in a street car. It is high temps that ruin regular oil whereas the synthetic oil can take high temps OK.
Now if you are racing or towing there is more to talk about. See: Oil Pump Coolers.
Engine Oil Capacity
See Oil Capacity
Oil Pressure
From the 1973 factory service manual:
* Oil pressure at idle (650 RPM ): 13-17 psi * Regulator valve spring Free Length: 43.49 mm (1.71 inch) Pressured Length: 30.3 mm (1.19 inch) * Regulator opening pressure: 54-60 psi
Oil Usage
It is normal to add some oil between the oil changes. Usually a quart every 1,500 miles is OK. A quart every 500 miles indicates either a serious leak, or "oil burning" (bad rings) in the engine.
Oil Pressure Sender
Oil Guages
Oil Temperature or Oil Pressure gauge can be added.
See Main Article: Oil Gauge
Oil Specifications
See Engine Oil Specifications
Oil Usage
See Engine Oil Specifications
Interchangeability
All A-series oil pumps are interchangeable in any A12/A12A/A13/A14/A15 engine, except the early A10 Engine oil pump. New pumps will clear the early A10 Connecting Rods.
- connecting rod cap strengthened with 1mm longer bolt boss starting with A10-728641
- Therfore, Oil pump driveshaft decreased 1.5 mm to clear the new cap design
Part Numbers
For a comprehensive lists of Oil Pump parts for the 1200, see Oil Pump Part Numbers.
Nissan 15010-H9701 ASSY-PUMP OIL WITH OUT OIL FILTER <> 15010-H6200 <> 15010-H1000 $114 USD * Fits A10/A12/A12A/A13/A14/A15 * Fits B10/B110/B120/B210/B310/C120 and F10/N10 * Filter points down
15010-M3001 PUMP ASSY-OIL <> 15010-M3000 $145 USD * FWD N10 "Datsun 310" "Datsun Pulsar" * RWD 1200 1989- * RWD B120, C22, C120
Aftermarket RockAuto Sealed Power 22441908 $39 USD ITM 057140 $52 USD
Cherry
15010-M0100 <> 15010-M * For FWD E10 "Nissan Cherry" "Datsun Cherry" * Filter points up
Strainer
The oil pump pickup tube has an integrated strainer.
See main article: Oil pan#Pickup Tube
Nissan Competition Parts
See main article: Competition Oil Pump
Hybrid High Volume Pump
See main article: High Capacity Oil Pump