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| See [[Headlight Wiring]] | See [[Headlight Wiring]] | ||
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| - | === Headlight Specifications === | ||
| - | Specs for headlights are 50/40 watt (standard large round headlights). | ||
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| - | Light Switch connector | ||
| - | <table border=1 borderwidth=1 bordercolor=black cellspacing=0 cellpadding=2> | ||
| - | <tr><td>R</td><td>Headlight hot feed | ||
| - | <li>from R wire of fuse box ('L' terminal)</td></tr> | ||
| - | <tr><td>R</td><td>Headlight circuit hot Output | ||
| - | <li>To RY wire of Dimmer Switch</td></tr> | ||
| - | <tr><td>n/a</td><td>no connection</td></tr> | ||
| - | <tr><td>n/a</td><td>no connection</td></tr> | ||
| - | <tr><td>GL</td><td>parking lights hot feed | ||
| - | <li>from GL wire of fuse box ('PT' terminal)</td></tr> | ||
| - | <tr><td>GL</td><td>parking lights circuit output | ||
| - | <li>to GL wire of headlights | ||
| - | <li>to GL wire of running (parking) lights | ||
| - | <li>to GL wire of Instrument panel</td></tr></table> | ||
| - | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=10046 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/10046.jpg] light switch wiring diagram | ||
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| - | Position Connections | ||
| - | <table border=1 borderwidth=1 bordercolor=black cellspacing=0 cellpadding=2><tr bgcolor="ccccff"><td>OFF</td><td>no connections</td></tr><tr><td>Pull stop 1 (halfway out)</td><td><li>GL to GL (parking lights)</td></tr><tr><td>Pull stop 2 (all the way out)</td><td><li>GL to GL (parking lights)<li>R to R (headlights)</td></tr></table>Headlight connector<table border=1 borderwidth=1 bordercolor=black cellspacing=0 cellpadding=2> | ||
| - | <tr><td>B</td><td>Ground</td><td>body connection</td></tr><tr><td>RW</td><td>(high beam) to one RW terminal of Dimmer Switch</td><td>only powered if Dimmer lever is forward</td></tr><tr><td>RB</td><td>(low beam) to RB terminal of Dimmer switch</td><td>only powered if Dimmer lever is back</td></tr></table> | ||
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| - | Dimmer Switch (in T/S & Light Switch unit on steering column) | ||
| - | <br>(headlight section of switch listed here)<table border=1 borderwidth=1 bordercolor=black cellspacing=0 cellpadding=2> | ||
| - | <tr><td>RY</td><td>Headlight hot feed</td><td><li>From R wire of Light Switch</td></tr> | ||
| - | <tr><td>RB</td><td>headlight low-beam</td><td><li>To RB wire of headlights</td></tr> | ||
| - | <tr><td>RW</td><td>headlight high-beam</td><td><li>To RW wire of headlights | ||
| - | <li>To RY wire of "MB" light\* in Instrument panel</td></tr> | ||
| - | </table> | ||
| - | \* Labeled "Beam" for 1971. The other side of this light is grounded. | ||
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| - | === Passing Light Switch === | ||
| - | A passing light feature was an option for B110. If your turn-signal lever has a push-button on the end, it's the passing light switch. Push it in, and the headlights light while it's pushed in (regardless of whether lights are on or off). | ||
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| - | <br>This is composed of two parts: | ||
| - | * The switch itself is part of the turn signal (on the steering column). | ||
| - | *: [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=14968 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/14968.jpg] [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=14971 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/14971.jpg] | ||
| - | * The relay. 1200s don't use headlight relays, except for this optional Passing Switch. It looks very much like the Horn Relay. | ||
| - | ** 25230-89912 RELAY-passing lamp (4-connector relay on early models) | ||
| - | ** 25230-89905 RELAY-passing lamp (3-connector relay from 1971 Apr) | ||
| - | ** 26320-14800 RELAY-horn (has 3 connectors, located by Coil) | ||
| - | **: [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=14969 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/14969.jpg] [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=14970 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/14970.jpg] | ||
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| - | Note that this just wires in series with the standard wiring. From the 'L' fuse to the high-beam wiring, the switch bypasses simply the regular switch, firing the Main Beams. | ||
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| - | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=5027 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/5027.jpg] | ||
| - | <br>Passing Light Switch circuit | ||
| - | * The red circle indicates the part of the T/S switch that is different from a normal T/S switch | ||
| == Running Lights, Turn Signals, etc == | == Running Lights, Turn Signals, etc == | ||
Revision as of 06:21, 28 December 2007
Datsun 1200 wiring is relatively uncomplicated.
WARNING: Wire colors can vary by year, model and country. Please double-check the wiring in your Datsun 1200 before connecting parts according to this article. You don't want to burn something up! Use a voltmeter or test light to confirm the circuit behavior.
Also see: Wiring Diagram
Wire color codes
| B | Black |
| W | White |
| R | Red |
| Y | Yellow |
| G | Green |
| L | Blue |
BW - Black wire with White stripe
Battery & Main Wiring
Battery has two wires, of course:
- Positive (+). Stock cable is RED. This connects directly to the starter's large connector. A smaller wire runs bout six inches from the terminal to the Fusible Link. See below.
- Negative (-, aka earth/ground). Stock cable is BLACK with Yellow stripe. It connects directly to the engine block at the oil pump. The engine end of this cable also has a smaller black wire. This is the main body ground and connects to the body at the Horn bolt
Main Wiring
There are three important main wires:
- Main ground wire (big battery cable). This bolts to the engine timing cover
- Body ground wire. This goes from the engine end of the Negative battery cable to the body. It's bolted down at the horn bolt. Without this weird problems can happen.
- Red wire at battery '+' terminal. This connects to the Fusible Link ("Main Fuse") about six inches from the battery
WARNING: Do not replace fusible link with a solid wire, or you risk burning up the entire wiring system ... If the fuse blows, figure out why before replacing it. Was there a short in the system, or did it simply overheat due to corroded contacts?
Fusible Link
Use a "FUL 0.5mm2" or better fuse-link. This goes between the battery and the main wiring harness (which also feeds the Alternator output "A" terminal)
Improvements
- Relocating battery to back of car. Advantages:
- Make room in engine compartment
- Balance weight of car
- 1200s are nose-heavy, so moving the 28-40 lb battery to the back helps. You need heavy-gauge cable, larger than stock due to the long lenght. Buy a kit with a sealed box, so fumes don't enter car
- Installing a modern new-fangled ground wire "System". There are two opinions:
AFRacer:
The grounding wire kits that people are putting on newer cars DO help out, and in many cases add power! I was a nonbeliever at first until I saw them used and they did add power and when I tore apart my 180SX I understood why it would add power. There are LOTS of electrical parts on newer cars, especially with EFI and distributorless ignitions ...
read moreddgonzal:
You've seen the ads where you install many grounds wires all over the car, sometimes using 'gold' connectors. They don't add horsepower. Not even new cars use this. There are advantages: They do make troubleshooting extremly complex wiring (like in a Mercedes with 47 computers) easier. My advice is don't waste your money on this.[edit:] After reading AFRacer's report above, I wonder if the B110 simply needs a better ground wire. The unibody is a large conductor so there is no problem there, but the stock ground wire is 1) kinda small and 2) in a place where corrosion can cause problems. Try using a thicker wire, grounding the battery and engine to the unibody in a better way (use a thick wire and good connections).
</blockquote>
Ignition Switch
The ignition switch bolts to the back of the key cylinder.
Ignition Switch Comparison
Interchange
B310 has a larger-diameter switch with two mounting lugs. B110 is smaller with one mounting lug. I believe the middle one (the one with the wiring harness) is a B210 switch, and looks like it would plug into the B110 harness, but is wired differently. Beware! I think this is the B210 Auto harness, where the BY wire goes through the auto-trans shifter inhibit switch (can only start car when in Nuetral or Park).
The 1971 switch has four spade terminals. The 1972 and newer adds the "Accessory" position and so has five spade terminals.
TIP: On the back of the switch, each contact is marked ('S', 'IG', etc.). Double-check before replacing to ensure they are the same.
B110 & B210 North American Wiring
| W | B (Battery) |
| BW or | IG (ignition/Run) |
| BW (LW for B210) | ACC (Accessory)
1971 switches didn't have ACC position |
| BY (YB for B210) | S (start) | BR | R (resistor) | </tr>
The switch in the picture with the wires has differently colored wires (WR, L, BL, BW, BY). From these colors and position, I think it is the same wiring as the B310 switch, just different colors.
Wiring Connections
Switch internal connections
| Off | no connections |
| Accessory | Battery (hot) to ACC |
| Run | Battery (hot) to ACC + IG |
| Start | Battery (hot) to IG + Resistor + Start\* |
\*Starting with 1974 automatic models and all newer, ACC is also hot while in the Start position.
Where do the wires go on a stock B110?
| switch terminal | Connects to ... | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| IG (ignition/run) | This connects to two things:
|
