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The Anti-sway bar, also known as a swaybar, helps bumps on left side of the road from affecting right side of car and vice-versa. Nissan calls this the stabilizer. The swaybar rotates in bushings bolted to the chassis, and is fastened at each end to the LCAs.
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Overview
The stabilizer is a spring from one side of the front suspension to the other. When one wheel goes over a bump, the end of the bar rises, resisting it (assisting the coil spring). But the bar is resisted by the other side of the car, thus overmuch Body Lean is prevented.
- When travelling a straight, smooth road, the swaybar has zero effect
- When one wheel goes over a bump, the swaybar acts as spring
- When both wheel go evenly over a speed bump, the swaybar has no effect
- When cornering, and weight shifts to one side, the swaybar counteracts the shift
So changing to a stiffer bar mainly affects cornering -- it corners flatter with less bad camber change. Therefore corners faster with less tire squeal. The stock coil springs are quite light, so a much stiffer bar works well and doesn't overpower a 1200.
When changing bars, raise the car so you can get under it easely BUT more importantly put blocks under the tyres so they are not hanging down. The positive camber of drooping wheels prevent you from getting the bar in. Make sure both sides are jacked evenly.
Upgrade
B210 Sway Bar Upgrade
Bolt a B210 (1974-1978 Sunny) swaybar on. For around $20 and an hour of your time, it bolts in without any mods:
what a difference it makes I can't believe the difference I can finally go around corners at a decent speed. For anyone who's looking for a quick and cheap handling improvement this is the way to go.
Sizes
- AUS B110: 16mm (5/8")
- USA B110: 17mm
- GX B110: 20mm
- USA B210: 18mm with A13
- USA B210: 20mm with A14
- AUS B210 early: 19mm with A12
- AUS B210 late: 20mm with A12
- 22mm (7/8") USA aftermarket
Part Numbers
1200 54611-H1002 BAR-TORSION FRONT STABILIZER -7907 54611-G1601 STABILIZER-FRONT 7908- 54611-H2300 Bar-torsion, front stabilizer GX 54617-H1001 BUSH-STABILIZER (2) $3.35 USD 54617-H2300 BUSHING-STABLIZER (2) GX 56125-18100 BUSH-RUBBER SHOCK ABSORBER (8) $3.18 USD 54618-95W25 ASSY-ROD CONNECTING FRONT STABILIZER $23.72 USD > 54618-H2300 08912-70810 M8 self-locking nut
B140 vs B110 GX bars
B210 54611-H5000 BAR-torsion, front stabilizer (Japan) * 54617-H5000 BUSH-rubber 2 54611-H5200 BAR-torsion, front stabilizer GX * 54617-H2300 BUSH-rubber 2 GX 54611-H2500 BAR-TORSION STABILIZER L14/L16 * 54617-H5000 BUSH-rubber 2 L14/L16 54611-H2500 BAR-TORSION STABILIZER USA * 54617-H5000 BUSH-rubber 2 USA
Link Ends
The link ends connect the end of the swaybar to the LCA.
Swaybar connecting rod (original H23 type)
Stabilizer connecting rod (updated 95W type)
Swaybar connecting rod (Moog)
Delco poly
Damaged
Aftermarket
SELBY AUSTRALIA
http://www.selbysuspensionnsw.com.au/products
CUSCO
23φ Part No. 204 311 A23
PEDDERS
KMAC 22mm
ADDCO
* Front: #877, 7/8" (22mm) $168 at swaybars.com
* Rear: #225, 5/8" (16mm) $132
WHITELINE rear bar
Mad Dat
Maddat Motorsports sell Product No. SWB1200
- 1200 Conversion Sway Bar Kit
- Adjustable 22mm swaybar
- Complete with D-bushes, saddles & link ends
- Powdercoated black
Also included in Maddat's engine conversion kit
demacoz: MADDAT Sway bar .... $309 delivered to my door. The alternative was to get a custom bar made which could have been $50 less but I would be doing the running around, i would take the risk that it did not fit and it would not come with the fittings .... so, Really it was a no-brainer - thanks Scott
Mad Dat end-links have the topmost end turned 90-degree to match the swaybar hole, similar to these GM units:
B10
Datsun 1000 rear anti-sway bar made by Whiteline
Bert custom-fabricated rear swaybar
Front made from 1200 bar
Custom alloy link
Working front sway bar: comment
B310
B310 bar does not fit B110. It is about 3mm thicker than the 1200 bar. 955mm fixing hole centres.
Custom
Unorthodox setups on local race cars abound.
Installed the second anti roll bar. What a great mod, more or less, gained about 1sec on my rivals, missed 4th place for the day with 0:00.21 of a second.
Having a heavier sway bar on the front ... for a rear sway bar I used a stock 1200 front sway bar bent it in by roughly 50mm each side and welded on some mounts - presto
25mm bar
Rear Bar Notes
Sway bars really should only be used as a fine-tuning device.
If you put on a rear bar you will end up lifting an inside rear wheel under hard cornering (unless you've got an LSD). Quite frankly you would be better to maybe throw another top leaf into the springs along with some heavier front coils.
SCCA Racer Tom: To stiff a rear bar will have the inside rear wheel unloading and cuase excessive wheel spin on corner exits , even with the stock A12. Next and more importantly sway bars are meant to be installed as a set , if you slap a rear bar on with the stock front your car will oversteer wildly. This may work fine at an Autocross but anything over 50 MPH the car will be a handful.Also keep in mind that big sway bars will affect the suspension compliance. My 1200 racer uses a 7/8 front and a 5/8 rear both are from Addco.
Coupe rear sway bar
20mm rear bar -- makes the rear sit flat - used to feel like it wanted to trip over the front of the car under hard cornering, almost like the rear wanted to roll over to opposite front corner- not now!
