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The Anti-sway bar, also known as a swaybar, helps bumps on left side of the road from affecting right side of car and vice-versa. Nissan calls this the stabilizer. The swaybar rotates in bushings bolted to the chassis, and is fastened at each end to the LCAs.

1 Overview
2 Upgrade
3 Sizes
4 Part Numbers
5 Link Ends
6 Aftermarket
- 6.1 Mad Dat
7 B10
8 B310
9 Custom
10 Rear
- 10.1 Rear Bar Notes

[edit]

Overview

The stabilizer is a spring from one side of the front suspension to the other. When one wheel goes over a bump, the end of the bar rises, resisting it (assisting the coil spring). But the bar is resisted by the other side of the car, thus overmuch Body Lean is prevented.

When travelling a straight, smooth road, the swaybar has zero effect
When one wheel goes over a bump, the swaybar acts as spring
When both wheel go evenly over a speed bump, the swaybar has no effect
When cornering, and weight shifts to one side, the swaybar counteracts the shift

So changing to a stiffer bar mainly affects cornering -- it corners flatter with less bad camber change. Therefore corners faster with less tire squeal. The stock coil springs are quite light, so a much stiffer bar works well and doesn't overpower a 1200.

When changing bars, raise the car so you can get under it easely BUT more importantly put blocks under the tyres so they are not hanging down. The positive camber of drooping wheels prevent you from getting the bar in. Make sure both sides are jacked evenly.

Post 459163 Post 459163 Post 459163 Post 459163 Post click for topic

[edit]

Upgrade

B210 Sway Bar Upgrade

Bolt a B210 (1974-1978 Sunny) swaybar on. For around $20 and an hour of your time, it bolts in without any mods:

what a difference it makes I can't believe the difference I can finally go around corners at a decent speed. For anyone who's looking for a quick and cheap handling improvement this is the way to go.

See Main Article: B210 Sway Bar Upgrade

[edit]

Sizes

AUS B110: 16mm (5/8")
USA B110: 17mm
GX B110: 20mm
USA B210: 18mm with A13
USA B210: 20mm with A14
AUS B210 early: 19mm with A12
AUS B210 late: 20mm with A12
22mm (7/8") USA aftermarket

[edit]

Part Numbers

1200
54611-H1002 BAR-TORSION FRONT STABILIZER -7907
54611-G1601 STABILIZER-FRONT 7908- 
54611-H2300 Bar-torsion, front stabilizer GX
54617-H1001 BUSH-STABILIZER (2) $3.35 USD
54617-H2300 BUSHING-STABLIZER (2) GX
56125-18100 BUSH-RUBBER SHOCK ABSORBER (8) $3.18 USD
54618-95W25 ASSY-ROD CONNECTING FRONT STABILIZER $23.72 USD > 54618-H2300 
  08912-70810 M8 self-locking nut

B140 vs B110 GX bars
Album 11883

B210
54611-H5000 BAR-torsion, front stabilizer (Japan)
* 54617-H5000 BUSH-rubber 2
54611-H5200 BAR-torsion, front stabilizer GX
* 54617-H2300 BUSH-rubber 2 GX
54611-H2500 BAR-TORSION STABILIZER L14/L16
* 54617-H5000 BUSH-rubber 2 L14/L16
54611-H2500 BAR-TORSION STABILIZER USA
* 54617-H5000 BUSH-rubber 2 USA

[edit]

Link Ends

The link ends connect the end of the swaybar to the LCA.

Post 490182
The bushings are the only parts that normally wear out. But link end kits include everything including the bolt, spacers and special washers.

Post 483002

Swaybar connecting rod (original H23 type)
Album 26332

Stabilizer connecting rod (updated 95W type)

Swaybar connecting rod (Moog)

Delco poly

Damaged/bent

The bushings are used across many Datsun models, but the link bolt/stud is different lengths. That means several kit will work if you throw away the hardware and just use the rubber/poly bushings. The 510/610/HB210 models use larger bushings. B110 uses same bushings as B10/B210/B310/A10.

Type 180 designed for Datsun B10
Type 181 designed for Datsun B10 Van

Front Suspension Part Numbers
56125-18100ᴳ BUSH-RUBBER (8 total) also used by the rear Coupe SHOCK ABSORBER
56126-18000ᴳ WASHER-OUTER (8) < 56113-04F00ᴳ
56127-18000ᴳ WASHER-INNER (4) < 56114-04F00ᴳ
08912-30810ᴳ NUT-SELF LOCK M8 (4) < 08912-70810/08912-7081Aᴳ
* B110, B210.A12, B310, A10

B110/B210.A12
54618-H2300 STABILIZER CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY [long stud] (2) > 54618-H1000
54618-95W00 STABILIZER CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY 8910- (2)

B310/A10 has a longer link bolt that uses a spacer tube
54618-W5000 STABILIZER CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY [long bolt] (2)
56270-P0100 COLLAR [spacer tube] (2)
08912-30810 NUT-SELF LOCK M8 (2)

HB210/PB210/GB210 uses the larger Bluebird parts (Type 094 = Bluebird 312)
56112-09400ᴳ BUSHING (8) < 56112-W5000ᴳ $10.37 USD 2025 
* S30 240Z/260Z/280Z
* 410/510/610/810
* 520/620
56113-09400 WASHER-OUTER (8)
56114-09400 WASHER-INNER (4)
54618-21001 STABILIZER CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY [long bolt] (2)
08912-34010 NUT-SELF LOCK M10 (2)

[edit]

Aftermarket

SELBY AUSTRALIA
http://www.selbysuspensionnsw.com.au/products

CUSCO
23φ Part No. 204 311 A23

PEDDERS

KMAC 22mm

ADDCOᴳ
* Front: #877, 7/8" (22mm) $168 at swaybars.com

[edit]

Mad Dat

Maddat Motorsports sell Product No. SWB1200

1200 Conversion Sway Bar Kit
Adjustable 22mm swaybar
Complete with D-bushes, saddles & link ends
Powdercoated black

Post 483009

Also included in Maddat's engine conversion kit

demacoz: MADDAT Sway bar .... $309 delivered to my door. The alternative was to get a custom bar made which could have been $50 less but I would be doing the running around, i would take the risk that it did not fit and it would not come with the fittings .... so, Really it was a no-brainer - thanks Scott

Post 384256 Post 384256

Post 430147 Post 430147

Mad Dat end-links have the topmost end turned 90-degree to match the swaybar hole, similar to these GM units:
Post 483000

[edit]

B10

Datsun 1000 rear anti-sway bar made by Whiteline
Album 18551

Bert custom-fabricated rear swaybar
Album 17472 Album 17473 Album 17474

Front made from 1200 bar
Album 14144

Custom alloy link
Album 9807

Working front sway bar: comment

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B310

B310 bar does not fit B110. It is about 3mm thicker than the 1200 bar. 955mm fixing hole centres.

[edit]

Custom

Unorthodox setups on local race cars abound.

Installed the second anti roll bar. What a great mod, more or less, gained about 1sec on my rivals, missed 4th place for the day with 0:00.21 of a second.
Post 252570

Having a heavier sway bar on the front ... for a rear sway bar I used a stock 1200 front sway bar bent it in by roughly 50mm each side and welded on some mounts - presto
Post 488091

25mm bar
Album 16480 Album 16479

[edit]

Rear

ADDCOᴳ
* Rear: #225, 5/8" (16mm) $132
Album 24805 Album 24804 Album 30201

addco 255 installation directions
Album 30199

WHITELINE rear bar
Album 7001

Unknown bar attached to body
Post 479638

[edit]

Rear Bar Notes

Sway bars really should only be used as a fine-tuning device.

If you put on a rear bar you will end up lifting an inside rear wheel under hard cornering (unless you've got an LSD). Quite frankly you would be better to maybe throw another top leaf into the springs along with some heavier front coils.

SCCA Racer Tom: To stiff a rear bar will have the inside rear wheel unloading and cuase excessive wheel spin on corner exits , even with the stock A12. Next and more importantly sway bars are meant to be installed as a set , if you slap a rear bar on with the stock front your car will oversteer wildly. This may work fine at an Autocross but anything over 50 MPH the car will be a handful.Also keep in mind that big sway bars will affect the suspension compliance. My 1200 racer uses a 7/8 front and a 5/8 rear both are from Addco.

Coupe rear sway bar
Album 11641 Album 11640 Album 11594 Album 11565

20mm rear bar -- makes the rear sit flat - used to feel like it wanted to trip over the front of the car under hard cornering, almost like the rear wanted to roll over to opposite front corner- not now!