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| = Running Lights, Turn Signals, etc = | = Running Lights, Turn Signals, etc = | ||
| - | The lighting circuits generally use Green wires: | ||
| - | * G - IG-hot from Fuse Box | ||
| - | * GY - Brake lights (stop lamps) | ||
| - | * GL - running lights (parking lights) | ||
| - | * GB - R.H. Turn Signal + running lights | ||
| - | * GR - L.H. Turn Signal + running lights | ||
| - | |||
| - | |||
| - | <b>Turn Signals</b>: The T/S path is as follows: From the IG side of the Fuse Box through the 10A "M" terminal (G wire) to the Four-Way Flasher Switch (Hazard Switch). This switch is normally off and so routes power through G wire to T/S Flasher Unit. This means one side of the T/S Flasher is normally HOT -- but only if the key is ON. From the T/S Flasher unit the power goes to the T/S Switch on the column. In the center position of course the power stops here. But move the switch to right or left, and the power is fed to the Left or Right circuits to power all the exterior bulbs and the two dash bulbs. The T/S Flasher Unit causes the power to start/stop resulting in flashing. | ||
| - | |||
| - | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=15957 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/15957.jpg] | ||
| - | * NILES Hazard flasher bolts to right side of column brace (G/L, G/W) | ||
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| - | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=15958 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/15958.jpg] | ||
| - | * NILES Turn Signal flasher bolts to left side of column brace | ||
| - | * W wire goes into steering column harness, up to the T/S switch | ||
| - | * G is the other wire | ||
| - | |||
| - | Front Side Marker lamp connector | ||
| - | <table border=1 borderwidth=1 bordercolor=black cellspacing=0 cellpadding=2> | ||
| - | <tr><td>B</td><td>Ground</td><td>body connection</td></tr> | ||
| - | <tr><td>GB</td><td>(R.H. side only)</td><td>GL wire (non-flashing)</td></tr> | ||
| - | <tr><td>GR</td><td>(L.H. side only)</td><td>GL wire (non-flashing)</td></tr> | ||
| - | </table> | ||
| - | |||
| - | Front Parking T/S Lamp connector | ||
| - | <table border=1 borderwidth=1 bordercolor=black cellspacing=0 cellpadding=2> | ||
| - | <tr><td>B</td><td>Ground</td><td>body connection</td></tr> | ||
| - | <tr><td>GB</td><td>Right-side T/S circuit | ||
| - | <br>(R.H. side only)</td><td>From right-side (GB) T/S circuit</td></tr> | ||
| - | <tr><td>GR</td><td>Left-side T/S circuit | ||
| - | <br>(L.H. side only)</td><td>From left-side (GR) T/S circuit</td></tr> | ||
| - | <tr><td>GL</td><td>Dedicated parking lamp circuit</td><td>From GL circuit</td></tr> | ||
| - | </table> | ||
| - | |||
| - | |||
| - | '''Dimmer Switch''' (in T/S & Light Switch unit on steering column) | ||
| - | <br>(T/S section of switch listed here) | ||
| - | <table border=1 borderwidth=1 bordercolor=black cellspacing=0 cellpadding=2> | ||
| - | <tr><td>?</td><td>T/S hot feed</td><td><li>From Flasher Unit</td></tr> | ||
| - | <tr><td>GB</td><td>Right-side T/S circuit</td><td><li>To Right-side (GB) T/S circuit | ||
| - | <li>To Instrument panel GR wire | ||
| - | <br>(right T/S lamp)</td></tr> | ||
| - | <tr><td>GR</td><td>Left-side T/S circuit</td><td><li>To Left-side (GR) T/S circuit | ||
| - | <li>To Instrument panel GR wire | ||
| - | <br>(left T/S lamp)</td></tr> | ||
| - | </table> | ||
| - | \*Labeled "Beam" for 1971. The other side of this light is grounded. | ||
| - | |||
| - | |||
| - | == Brake lights == | ||
| - | Brake lights (STOP lamps) -- thankfully -- are simply connected on the B110. At the rear light boxes, the GY wires connect to the main harness GY circuit. This is connected to the "Stop Lamp Switch" at the brake pedal. The other side of this switch (both are YG wires) is connected to Fuse Box GY wire ("H" terminal 15A always-hot). So brake lights work when key is off. | ||
| - | |||
| - | |||
| - | '''Instrument panel "Brake" lamp''' | ||
| - | <br>The IP brake lamp is not related to the rear brake lamps. Instead it signals if the hand brake is on ("Parking Brake Switch"), or if the master cylinder brake light switch ("Brake System Switch") senses a pressure differential problem. | ||
| - | |||
| - | |||
| - | Rear combination Lamp Box | ||
| - | <table border=1 borderwidth=1 bordercolor=black cellspacing=0 cellpadding=2> | ||
| - | <tr><td>REV</td><td>RB</td><td>Reverse lamp circuit</td></tr> | ||
| - | <tr><td>T/S</td><td>WR</td><td>To Left- or Right-side T/S circuit | ||
| - | <li>GB (R.H.) | ||
| - | <li>GR (L.H.)</td></tr> | ||
| - | <tr><td>STOP</td><td>GY</td><td>Brake light circuit</td></tr> | ||
| - | <tr><td>TAIL</td><td>GW</td><td>Running lights circuit</td></tr> | ||
| - | <tr><td>EARTH</td><td>B</td><td>Rear Comb. lamp "fix bolt"\*</td></tr> | ||
| - | </table> | ||
| - | \*The rear wiring harness has a ground wire that bolts to the right-side rear bumper hold-down bolt (inside the car). | ||
| - | |||
| - | |||
| - | <b>Reverse Lights</b> are simply connected. The Red wire connects to the reverse switch on the side of the transmission. This switch in turn is fed from the G wire at the fuse box ("M" terminal of fuse box -- 10A fuse). It's always in affect, regardless of the Light Switch position. In other words, the Reverse light should work even if the headlights or running lights are off. | ||
| - | |||
| - | |||
| - | <b>License plate lamp(s)</b> is simply connected to the rear-harness "tail" circuit (rear running lights -- GW wire). See above. But it is grounded locally, not through a harness wire. | ||
| - | |||
| - | |||
| - | <b>Interior Dome Light</b> has one side of the lamp (RL wire) always hot from the L wire of the fuse box. The switch has three positions: | ||
| - | <li>Off | ||
| - | <li>Auto (center) | ||
| - | <li>On | ||
| - | In the auto position, the light is grounded by the Door Switch (BR wire in a-pillar). Usually only the driver's side door has a switch. In the ON position, it is grounded through the ground wire in the headliner. | ||
| + | See [[Lamp Wiring]] | ||
| = Tachometer = | = Tachometer = | ||
Revision as of 06:50, 31 May 2009
Datsun 1200 wiring is relatively uncomplicated.
WARNING: Wire colors can vary by year, model and country. Please double-check the wiring in your Datsun 1200 before connecting parts according to this article. You don't want to burn something up! Use a voltmeter or test light to confirm the circuit behavior.
Also see: Wiring Diagram
Contents |
Wire color codes
| B | Black |
| W | White |
| R | Red |
| Y | Yellow |
| G | Green |
| L | Blue |
BW - Black wire with White stripe
Battery & Main Wiring
Battery has two wires, of course:
- Positive (+). Stock cable is RED. This connects directly to the starter's large connector. A smaller wire runs bout six inches from the terminal to the Fusible Link. See below.
- Negative (-, aka earth/ground). Stock cable is BLACK with Yellow stripe. It connects directly to the engine block at the oil pump. The engine end of this cable also has a smaller black wire. This is the main body ground and connects to the body at the Horn bolt
Main Wiring
There are three important main wires:
- Main ground wire (big battery cable). This bolts to the engine timing cover
- Body ground wire. This goes from the engine end of the Negative battery cable to the body. It's bolted down at the horn bolt. Without this weird problems can happen.
- Red wire at battery '+' terminal. This connects to the Fusible Link ("Main Fuse") about six inches from the battery
WARNING: Do not replace fusible link with a solid wire, or you risk burning up the entire wiring system ... If the fuse blows, figure out why before replacing it. Was there a short in the system, or did it simply overheat due to corroded contacts?
Fusible Link
Use a "FUL 0.5mm2" or better fuse-link. This goes between the battery and the main wiring harness (which also feeds the Alternator output "A" terminal)
- Part Number 25442-H2500
Fuse Box
In addition to the main fuse wire in the engine compartment, there is a main fuse box under the dashboard.
See main article: Fuse Box
USA 1972 Owners manual (see pages 35 for fuse information):
If a fuse needs to be replaced, refer to the specifications listed on the fuse box cover.
Fusible Link
- 25442-H1100 LINK-FUSIBLE,TYPE C replaced by 25442-H2500
Improvements
- Relocating battery to back of car. Advantages:
- Make room in engine compartment
- Balance weight of car
- 1200s are nose-heavy, so moving the 28-40 lb battery to the back helps. You need heavy-gauge cable, larger than stock due to the long lenght. Buy a kit with a sealed box, so fumes don't enter car
- Installing a modern new-fangled ground wire "System". There are two opinions:
AFRacer:
The grounding wire kits that people are putting on newer cars DO help out, and in many cases add power! I was a nonbeliever at first until I saw them used and they did add power and when I tore apart my 180SX I understood why it would add power. There are LOTS of electrical parts on newer cars, especially with EFI and distributorless ignitions ...
read moreddgonzal:
You've seen the ads where you install many grounds wires all over the car, sometimes using 'gold' connectors. They don't add horsepower. Not even new cars use this. There are advantages: They do make troubleshooting extremly complex wiring (like in a Mercedes with 47 computers) easier. My advice is don't waste your money on this.[edit:] After reading AFRacer's report above, I wonder if the B110 simply needs a better ground wire. The unibody is a large conductor so there is no problem there, but the stock ground wire is 1) kinda small and 2) in a place where corrosion can cause problems. Try using a thicker wire, grounding the battery and engine to the unibody in a better way (use a thick wire and good connections).
</blockquote>
Ignition Switch
The ignition switch bolts to the back of the key cylinder.
Ignition Switch Comparison
Interchange
B310 has a larger-diameter switch with two mounting lugs. B110 is smaller with one mounting lug. I believe the middle one (the one with the wiring harness) is a B210 switch, and looks like it would plug into the B110 harness, but is wired differently. Beware! I think this is the B210 Auto harness, where the BY wire goes through the auto-trans shifter inhibit switch (can only start car when in Nuetral or Park).
The 1971 switch has four spade terminals. The 1972 and newer adds the "Accessory" position and so has five spade terminals.
TIP: On the back of the switch, each contact is marked ('S', 'IG', etc.). Double-check before replacing to ensure they are the same.
B110 & B210 North American Wiring
| W | B (Battery) |
| BW or | IG (ignition/Run) |
| BW (LW for B210) | ACC (Accessory)
1971 switches didn't have ACC position |
| BY (YB for B210) | S (start) | BR | R (resistor) | </tr>
The switch in the picture with the wires has differently colored wires (WR, L, BL, BW, BY). From these colors and position, I think it is the same wiring as the B310 switch, just different colors.
Wiring Connections
Switch internal connections
| Off | no connections |
| Accessory | Battery (hot) to ACC |
| Run | Battery (hot) to ACC + IG |
| Start | Battery (hot) to IG + Resistor + Start\* |
\*Starting with 1974 automatic models and all newer, ACC is also hot while in the Start position.
Where do the wires go on a stock B110?
| switch terminal | Connects to ... | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| IG (ignition/run) | This connects to two things:
|
