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Revision as of 05:21, 23 March 2009

The Nissan L-series engine (as in the 1600/510) is a good swap. Inexpensive, readily available both in USA and Australia, and these are a larger engine family than the Nissan A Engine. From L13 to L18, they are nearly identical on the outside. The L20B 2-liter engine is a tall-block variation but it still will fit under the hood and without cutting the sheetmetal. The Z-series Engine is closely related but has a crossflow cylinder head.

1 Discussions
2 Engines
3 Crossmember
4 Rear Crossmember
5 Transmission
6 L20B Swap
- 6.1 L20B Sources
7 Swap Tips
8 Photo Index

Discussions

And for L Engine questions unrelated to Datsun 1200s specifically:

Ozdat Forums

Engines

L13: early Datsun 510 Standard models came with L13. Don't bother to swap this, an A14 is better.

L14: Nissan put the L14 in the Japan-only PB110.

However, why bother these days? Nissan didn't have an A14 in 1970, but we do now, and it is much less work to fit, and weighs a lot less.

L16: A bit more power than an A15, the L16 is good choice if you obtain one inexpensively.

L18 is a big power boost over an A15:

L20B fitted:

LZ Engine: A super-rare racing engine was the LZ20 twin-cam, fitted to 1200 racing cars.

See main article: [LZ engine]]

LZ20 DOHC engine

Crossmember

You can modify the 1200 crossmember: Have the mounts trimmed to an angle simular to that of a 200B, then cut the 200B mounts in 1/2 to finish the job and locate the motor lower and improve the mounting angles. A 910 Bluebird L20B sump fits almost perfect, reshape it with a hammer a little just so it will clear the 1200 crossmember, maybe 1/2cm.

If using other sumps, you may need to do the following:

Remove notch from Datsun 1200 xmember
Reshape sump to clear the drag link

Sumps:

Datsun A10 (Stanza/510) sump and oil pump pickup are the most forward type that is available
Most L20B sumps are same as A10
Datsun 1600 and Datsun 180B sump is slightly more rearward

Sumps and pickups can be interchanged, but the blocks may need to be drilled for the dipstick.

Rear Crossmember

Rear crossmember (Transmission Mount)

Transmission

Transmissions for Z engine and L engine bolt to either engine but the L engine is slanted by about 10 degrees, so it affects the angle the shifter comes out.

engine tilt
Note the CA Engines have a different bell pattern so their gearboxes do not fit the L Engine.

Using a stubby transmission will line up with the 1200 shifter hole. It is about 5 or 6 inches shorter than the more common L-engine transmissions. These are also called shorty, stumpy, or short-tailed.

Stubby is ~26.3 inches -- same length as Datsun 510 automatic transmission

4-speed stubby gearboxes are common:

1968-1973 Datsun 510 ("1600") F4W63

5-speed stubby gearboxes comes from:

1981-1985 R30 Skyline with L24 six-cylinder engine
1977-1979 200SX USA S10 (L-series engine, FS5W63 "smoothcase" dogleg)
1968-1973 PL510 (L-series engine, F4W63 "bottom pan")
720 FS5W71B "ribbed case" used on certain 720 4X4s (long wheelbase?)
- Z-engined series
- may have had an L series in 1980 only

Comparo

Regular
- ~31.5 inches overall transmission length
- transmission extension housing about same length as (front) transmission case
- From the bottom front of the bell housing to the cross member bolts is ~21-1/2"

Stubby
- ~26.3 inches overall transmission length
- transmission extension housing about 5" shorter than transmission case

Or use a standard L-engine tranmission. The only bit of cutting wil be 1/2 of the gearstick hole but that can be welded that back in the other side to make the factory rubber shifter gasket fit back in. You can see it here:

Comparo: Stubby vs Regular transmission
Notice the shifter location (top part of picture)

Photo Gallery: L Engine transmission comparison photos at Ratsun.net

L20B Swap

The L20B is a 2-liter four cylinder engine. Not to be confused with the L20 six cylinder.

no holes cut
just panel beat the lower corners of the front of the tunnel with a hammer, as the L series is wider
modify the engine mounts and make a crossmember
- 1200 crossmember had the mounts trimmed to an angle simular to that of an 810, then cut the 810 mounts in 1/2 to finish the job and locate the motor lower and improve the mounting angles.
810 oil sump is a near-perfect fit in the 1200, reshape it a little just so it will clear the crossmember, maybe 1/2cm with a hammer