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Australia-assembled Stanza (1978-1981 A10) is a beefier version of the B110/B210/B310 suspension ... so the parts fit with only small modifications. This is a popular swap in Australia, due to the beefy Girlock calipers for the local market.
Contents |
Overview
Japan-built A10 (510/Stanza/Violet) has the same rotor size but with smaller calipers. See B310 swap (B310 and A10 use the same parts).
For more information on struts swaps, including other choices, see main article: Strut swaps.
1200rallycar has this to say about the Stanza strut swap:
I installed stanza struts to give me 9.5" discs with huge pad area (single piston though) and also to permit putting wider wheels (14*5.5" maybe 6" can fit not sure) the struts are a straight swap if you use the following componentsuse the stanza struts and stub axle, 1200 springs and top-plate things, stanza lower control arms, 120y castor rods and 1200 tie rods. all ya gotta do is swap everything over and i think when you put the stanza struts in you reverse the sides they came from but its pretty obvious which one goes on which side when you go to put em on anyway. If you want a stiff front end too change over the oil in the stanza shockers to 20W-50 motor oil (ive done and it works a treat, no body roll) There is 250ml oil in these struts. I am quite happy with the brakes as theyll pull me up instantly without change to master and no booster used. As added bonus stanza struts installed like this give about 1 degree negative camber.
The stanza springs can be used in this install but would need to be cut down (legalities involved) and the holes where the strut mounts to the tower need to be bored and elongated out so you can use the stanza top plate, though these springs will be stiffer and its possible to lift the front of you car a little for more squat on launch.
There is two stanza struts one has a three bolt ball joint the other has a four bolt, you need the one with the four bolt, also there is notable diffrence between calipers, the four bolt has big girlocks, the three has small calipers similar to the 1200. (i think the change between struts occurs in 1980)
This is very similar to the B310 Strut Swap, main differences:
- No machining needed for B310 strut with 245 mm brakes. With A10, you need to cut the strut shorter. Otherwise there will only be 2' of suspension travel
- A10 has bigger, better brakes (Aussie versions of A10, at least) with 245mm (9.6') rotors but the Girlock calipers have much bigger pad than the B110 or B310.
B310: 1979-1982 Sunny, 210, 140Y/150Y
Stanza struts and 275mm rotor Commodore VL Turbo caliper
TIP: If you want a stiff front end, change over the oil in the Stanza shocks to 20W-50 motor oil (1200rallycar has done and it works a treat, no body roll) There is 250ml oil in these struts. I am quite happy with the brakes as theyll pull me up instantly without change to master and no booster used. As added bonus Stanza struts installed like this give about 1 degree negative camber.
- No brake booster is needed
Rotor Sizes
Rotor Sizes (JDM Parts Catalog)
| Dia. (mm) | Part Number | Source |
| 212.5 | 40206-H1006 | B110, B210 with A12 1974, 1975 |
| 245 (SC20) | 40206-U5100 | A10 |
| 245 (SC20) | 40206-U6700 | B210 A14, B310 A14/A15, PB210 late? |
40206-U6700 245mm solid rotor * HB210 USA * HB310 (A14), PB310 (A15), B310 (A12A USA) * C120 Vanette 7810-8106 K+V.SB.GL * S110 Silvia
IMPORTANT
In Australia, there are two A10 strut/brake combos:
- one has a three-bolt ball-joint (pre-1980?)
- other has a four-bolt ball-joint (post-1980?)
You need the one with the four-bolt, also there is notable difference between calipers, the four-bolt has big Girlock calipers, the three has small calipers similar to the 1200. You want the one with the Girlocks.
A10 early/late Comparo
In the USA, there is only a single A10 brake system -- 245mm rotor with B310-style caliper.
Coil Springs & Strut Top
The strut tops are different, so use the B110 tops with the A10 struts.
Now the spring of the A10 strut is too long for the B110.
- Use the B110 coil spring (110 mm diameter), spring cup and strut top hat, and fit it to the A10 strut. If you lower the car more than an inch or two you will need to flare the fenders.
- Or, cut the A10 springs by 2'
Optional, for racing or lowering
- Remove the spring perch and use a weld-on Coilover Springs kit. You can lower the car more by getting the tires in closer to these small-diameter coils (using different offset wheels)
Coilovers also give you more room for wider tires, as well as more room to move the strut with adjustable camber/caster strut tops.
Remember that that the stock B110/B210/B310 spring rate is:
- 90 lb/in
- For road/race compromise, use 200 lb/in springs
- For road racing, using 250 lb/in springs
Shortening the Strut
Cut strut tube:
One method is this: cut the strut tube into three sections:
The strut needs to be reduced in length about 50mm, it is best to cut the strut about 40mm below the thread of the insert/canister cap. Simply cut out a 50mm of tube and then re-weld it together.
Doing it this way gets around the problem of having to use a lathe to recut the thread or cutting from the bottom which changes the ride.
In other words:
- Section at top with threads
- Cut out a middle section of 50 mm and discard
- bottom section
Then re-weld the top and bottom sections together.
Strut Inserts
Use 240K gas inserts. Don’t forget you may need a spacer at the bottom of the strut tube to make it all line up, nice and tight. You can use a stack of large-diameter washers.
Balljoints and Lower Suspension
The spacing where the strut bolts to the steering arm is different from B110 spacing. So, use the A10 or B310 lower parts:
- steering arm (knuckle)
- LCA (same length as B110)
B310: 1979-1982 Sunny aka 'Datsun 210', 140Y or 150Y
Now the A10 uses the same strut-to-knuckle spacing, so you can use these parts:
- A10 steering arm (knuckle). This is preferred over B310 because it doesn't push the tire outside
A10/B310 Ball-joint Offset
About 15-18mm difference.
The Ball-joint bolts on top of the Lower Control Arm. The steering arm (steering knuckle) fits on top of the ball joint via the taper post.
- Use the longer B310 ball-joint to gain negative camber. The downside is it pushes the tire to the outside, and wider tires will foul on the outer fenders.
The 310 ball joint uses a larger diameter taper. It wouldn't fit into the 110/210 steering arm. 310 steering arms, (As you know) have a greater bolt spacing than the B110/B210s do. So you couldn't use them without swapping the whole strut.
All Datsun/Nissan struts -- except B110 and B210 -- up to and including R31 Skyline and 280ZX struts will bolt to an A10/B310 steering arm. The A10/B310 lower control arm is same length as a 1200. So you can use the A10/B310 control arm with other. The A10/B310 ball joint is needed to fit the steering arm, and this will make wider track (resulting in about 1 degree negative camber).
Tension Rods
- If using the A10/B310 lower control arm, use the A10/B310 caster rod.
- Otherwise use the B110 control arm with B110 caster rod and A10/B310 ball joint + steering arm.
Or
- If using the A10 lower control arm, the B110 and B210 Caster rods (aka tc, radius, tension rods) can be used. The length is correct, but bolt spacing needs to be wider for the A10 balljoint and tapped to M10. This means drilling one new hole in the tension rod.
For more details, see Caster Rods.
Instructions
Parts Needed
Grab the whole front strut/brake assembly as well as the brake hoses and the brake bias controller unless you plan on using an adjustable unit. Also grab the brake master cylinder if it is a similar type to the B110.
Details
Use at your own risk. There is no guarantee these steps are complete.
- Remove strut
- Disassemble the coil and remove strut insert
- Cut the A10 spring cup from the strut tube
- Cut the tube to length
- Weld the B110 cup onto the A10 strut
- swap the springs and strut top from the B110 onto the A10 strut
- Put A10 strut on car. Put the A10 struts reverse of the sides they came from but its pretty obvious which one goes on which side when you go to put them on
- Check wheel alignment. Especially set the toe-in, it will have changed.
Part Numbers
NOTE: This is from the JDM parts catalogs. It doesn't list the good Aussie Girlock 4-pot calipers and pads. Nor the USA B310 AN20 (twin-piston calipers) brakes
| Model | A10 | B310 A14/A15 |
| Rotor | 40206-U5100 | 40206-U6700 |
| Hub | 40202-W5050 | 40202-W5050 |
| Baffle Plate | 41151-22000 | 41151-22000 |
| Caliper Assy | 41000-W5001 | 41000-W5001 |
| Brake Pad (JDM) | 41060-U4026 Akebono S21B | 41060-A1126 Akebono S17A (S21B pads on some) |
| Caliper Plate | 41025-22000 | 41025-22000 |
| Knuckle Arm | 40052-W5000, 40052-W5060 | 40052-W5000, 40052-W5060 |
| Ball Joint | 40160-W5000 | 40160-W5000 |
| Rod Assy LH (RHD) | 48630-W5025 | 48630-W5025 |
| Lower Arm (RH) | 54100-H8500, 54100-W5000 | 54100-H8500 |
| Tension Rod RH | 54470-W5000 | 54470-W5000 |
| Strut Assy | 54302-W7625 | 54302-H8527,54302-H8529 54302-H9025 54302-H9225 |
- Ball-joint: A10, A11, B310, S110
- Rotor: Rockauto lists same PNs for B310 and A10 $9.52 each.
- Another source lists these:
- Datsun 1600, 180B, 610 Sedan, SSS (9/1974 - 8/1978)
- Stanza A10 (5/1978 - 6/1979)
- Sunny A14, A15 (1979 - 1981)
- Vanette C20 (10/1980 - 5/1981)
- Another source lists these:
Photo Index
Click each photo for larger pic, details and maybe more information on A10 struts.
