Revision as of 05:58, 10 November 2011 ddgonzal (Talk | contribs) (->MK63 Racing Brakes) <- Previous diff |
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- | This article focuses on advanced brakes, requiring machining. | + | The stock 1200 front-disc/rear-drum system was good for 1971. In fact, stopping power was [[Performance|better than most 'muscle cars' of the era]]. However, fading under repeated hard stops was a problem as these were not ventilated rotors. But compared to modern cars ... well, they don't really compare at all -- even the cheapest new import car has better brakes than the 1973 Datsun 1200. |
- | For general brake improvements, see [[Brake Swaps]] | + | = Overview = |
+ | There are two easy ways to get better brakes. This article will discuss these methods: | ||
+ | * Better brake pads, using premium materials | ||
+ | * Simple brakes swaps requiring no machining | ||
+ | There is also more complicated methods, which allows you to have world-class brakes, as good as any new car. For details see [[Brake Swaps]]. | ||
- | = Front Brakes = | + | = Better Brake Pads = |
+ | Better brake pads can make a big difference. If you are a racer you know this. But for a street car, if you live in a hilly or mountainous area and your brakes fade, consider new pads. | ||
- | == Upgrading With Slotted Standard Rotors == | + | Smart racers use stock 1200 brakes - but use racing pads.<blockquote>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=14882 Rallytwit]: Rob Walker would know 1200's for sure since he's been racing the them for about 35 years.<blockquote>LOWTECH: Rob Walker, who has one of the fastest road race 1200's around, told me that the stock 1200 calipers with good pads stops his race car easily.</blockquote></blockquote> |
- | RDA can supply standard rotors with slots if you ask for them. Mine cost me $290 for the pair. | + | <blockquote>[{{Post|60324}} B110SSS]: Spend the money and put something good in the coupe- Pagid or Mintex 1155's etc and if you can't get them to fit your caliper then put something else on that you can get a good quality pad for.<br> |
+ | <br>And if anyone tells you that they are no good on the street thats simply not true - the new generation compounds work just fine from cold. Sure they get much better when hot, but are more than adequate for driving around the streets on.</blockquote> | ||
- | == Using Z-car or 280ZX struts == | + | {{Album|19532}} |
- | '''Z''' means 240Z, 260Z or 280Z (Nissan chassis code S30). The 280ZX (S130) came later. | + | |
- | See [[280ZX Strut Swap]] for details. This section will focus on even better brake choices, after you've got the Z or ZX struts. | + | = Brake Booster = |
+ | A booster will not improve the braking ability of the car. But you may want one so that it is a bit easier to press the brake pedal. | ||
+ | {{SeeMainArticle!|Brake Booster Swaps}} | ||
- | Rotor Comparo | + | = 1200 Brakes = |
- | * 240/260/280Z: 272 mm (10.7") non-ventilated | + | 1200 brakes work fairly well if in good shape. The drum brakes will stop as quickly as discs -- IF adjusted correctly. |
- | * 280ZX rotors: 254 mm (10.0") ventilated, 18 mm thick, fit Z-car struts | + | |
- | * 300ZX rotors: 274 mm (10.8") ventilated, 22 mm thick, don't fit 280ZX struts | + | |
+ | == 1200 Disc Swap == | ||
+ | If your 1200 has all-drum brakes, take note that '''disc brakes are''': | ||
+ | * easier to work on | ||
+ | * More resistant to fading -- safer after repeated stops (they dissipate heat far better) | ||
- | All the Z and ZX 4-bolt hubs will allow interchange of any rotor onto any hub as far as being able to be physically bolted together. In other words, any Z or ZX 4-bolt hub will accept any other Z or ZX brake rotor as far as physically bolting them together. However the rotor thickness and offset are more important. Also any Z or ZX 4 bolt hub will also fit onto the Z spindle too, with the only difference being a very slight displacement of inside seal (the wheel bearings are the same). | + | Swapping 1200 drums for discs is easy. See [[1200 Disc Brake Swap]]. |
+ | == 1200 Disc Upgrade == | ||
+ | Replace the stock B110 212 mm rotors with 220 mm rotors. Bolts on, but need an adapter to move the caliper 4 mm farther out. Fits under 12" wheels. | ||
- | 300ZX calipers are wider, heavier, and had a different bolt spacing than did the 280ZX or Z calipers, even though the piston and pad area on these calipers was no bigger than the piston and pad area on the 280ZX caliper. | + | Rotor Nissan [[Brakes#Rotor|40206-H7500]] |
+ | * A12 powered B210 1976-1978 | ||
+ | * A12 powered B310 (including CANADA A12A) | ||
+ | H75 rotor with factory Nissan-Datsun Australia caliper adapter | ||
+ | <br>{{Photo!|16236_56890bcc88dad_.jpg|Datsun%201200/Parts}} | ||
- | Apparently the stock non-ventilated rotor is close to overheating on a 2800 pound Z-car, but may be fine on a light 1200. | + | == Big Disc Upgrade == |
+ | 245 mm B310/Stanza rotors (Nissan [[Brakes#Rotors|40206-U6700]]) will bolt to the 1200 hub, but requires 13" wheels. These are nearly as big as [[S13 Brakes]] (5mm less) and are lighter weight than the [[S13 Brakes]] vented disc swap, but not as big as the 258 mm [[280ZX_Brake_Upgrade#S13_Rear_Rotors|S13 solid Rotor Swap]]. | ||
- | It seems the 280ZX strut lets you use a 1" smaller wheel? | + | B310 brakes use large 245mm rotor (same rotor as A10 Stanza and [[Brakes#Rotor_Sizes|others]]) |
+ | <br>{{Album|21552}} | ||
+ | # Rotors need simple machining (drill 4 new holes) | ||
+ | # Fabricate a spacer ring to change the large 73mm hub reg to 70 mm | ||
+ | # Unbolt the old disc from the 1200 hub, and bolt the large disc on | ||
+ | # Fabricate a caliper adapter to move the caliper out 16 mm | ||
- | Adventurous swapsters: notice that 1981 Toyota Cressida caliper bolts to the Z-car strut and has slightly smaller piston and pads. What size rotor does the Cressida have? | + | [{{Post|475011}} zigmondo has been using] these with the PBR 120Y caliper, but you could use the standard B310 Japan caliper or the A10 PBR caliper. Just depends on how you fabricate the caliper adapter plate. |
+ | {{UploadPost|16236_56890bdf5b6d8.jpg|475011}} {{UploadPost|16236_57e4793f38188.jpg|481412}} | ||
- | === Ventilated 300ZX Rotor on Z Strut === | + | Caliper adapter is similar to factory 120Y adapter (left), but spaces the caliper out further. Right: PBR caliper adapter |
- | Use 280ZX caliper. as 300ZX calipers don't bolt on, having the bolt spacing farther apart. | + | <br>{{UploadPost|16236_56890bcc88dad.jpg|475011}} |
- | # The caliper has the bolt threads. So drill out the Z-car strut to fit them and put bolts through the strut holes into the caliper | + | |
- | # Use a spacer on the caliper bolts to center the caliper over the rotor. Use early 240Z hubs. A thick .160" washer, is placed between the caliper and the strut. If using newer hubs, which are thicker, it won't be a bolt on, but probably you'd have to machine the hub. | + | |
- | # Machine the larger 300ZX rotor down to reduce diamter by about 1/4 inch (it should just come past the brake pads) | + | |
- | reference: [http://zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/BrakeUpdate.html Z Home] | + | The 1200 disc brake hub bolts to a rotor with [[Brakes#Rotor|87 Pitch Circle Diameter]]. The [[Brakes#Rotor|B310.A14 rotor]] has 95 PCD. So take the big disc and drill four new holes at 87 PCD. |
+ | Any machine shop can fabricate the spacer ring, which is nominally 3 mm wide and 70mm I.D. Take both the new disc and the 1200 disc hub to the machinist for exact measuring. | ||
- | == S13 Brakes == | + | Spacer ring fitted inside big disc |
- | S13 250mm rotor & caliper on 1200 disc brake struts | + | <br>{{Photo!|16236_56890bcc88dad_.jpg}} |
- | http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=32857 | + | With wheel spacer |
- | <br>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=16267 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/16267.jpg] | + | <br>{{Album|3052}} |
+ | == Wilwood Brakes == | ||
+ | Wilwood makes lightweight racing brakes. You can bolt them to the stock 1200 hubs. | ||
+ | http://wilwood.com | ||
- | ==MK63 Racing Brakes == | + | * Light alloy hubs |
- | Fits Z-car Struts and B310 large (13" wheel) struts. See [[Strut Swaps]]. | + | * Extra light thin rotors |
+ | * alloy calipers | ||
- | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=23795 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/photos/23795.jpg] | + | For racing, light is good. For street, light is good. |
- | These were the FIA brake calipers, offered in the Nissan 'Sports Option' parts lists in Japan, and through Datsun Competition in the USA. They were fitted to most of the works 240Z and 260Z rally cars, most of the works circuit racing 432R and 240ZR race cars, as well as many of Skyline, Sunny and Violet race cars. | + | Wilwood Dynapro single caliper and Wilwood 10.25" two-piece disc. Uses stock 1200 spindle and stock 1200 hubs -- although he's modified everything else. |
- | * Approximately 50% more pad area than stock 240Z brakes | + | Wilwood brakes on stock 1200 hubs & spindles |
- | * Require removal of the backing plate. Complete bolt-on. | + | <br>{{Album|14882}} {{Album|14883}} |
+ | <blockquote>I finally got these struts on the car! Wow is all I can say! The pedal is rock hard and the car stops ridiculously fast! I haven't done any measured stops yet but the feel is outstanding.</blockquote> | ||
- | * Feral used 261 mm diameter or even 253 mm rotors. | + | = Brake Warning Switch = |
- | * early S110 rear discs and calipers were small and very light and fit under 13's. The discs were same as R31 skyline...discs and calipers came on an E-PS110 Z20E powered with FS5w71B & HB 38 | + | Don't forget to use a brake warning switch. |
- | rear axle. It had an SX badge on the rear hatch. | + | |
+ | = Master Cylinder Choice = | ||
+ | If you change to all front-discs, you can either use: | ||
+ | * master cylinder and brake-line "splitter" (warning light switch) | ||
+ | *: {{Thumb|7663}} | ||
+ | * The "tandem" cylinder is recommended (it has two reservoirs) | ||
+ | * IMPORTANT: Don't use a single outlet cylinder. It is less safe as all four brakes can fail at once. A double-outlet cylinder is safer | ||
+ | *: Alternatively (though not recommended) just remove the check-valve out of the front-feed outlet of the drum-brake master cylinder: | ||
+ | *:* {{Thumb|1399}} | ||
- | Nismo MK63 Sumitomo 4 pot calipers | + | = Moved Master Cylinder = |
- | * 89.9 bolt spacing | + | For LHD cars, to make more room for twin carburetors, the master cylinder can be moved farther over. |
- | * Has four 41.3 mm pistons | + | |
- | * Caliper repair kit 41120-68225 fixes all seals for one caliper | + | |
- | *: [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=23787 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/23787.jpg] | + | |
- | * Replacement piston 41124-68200 | + | |
- | *: [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=23793 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/23793.jpg] | + | |
+ | A small master cylinder, such as from a 1982-1986 '''Nissan B11''' (sentra/sunny/tsuru) can be used to tuck in behind the strut tower. | ||
- | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=23791 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/23791.jpg] [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=23792 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/23792.jpg] [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=23794 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/23794.jpg] | + | See [{{Post|160120}} Relocating the master cylinder for LHD cars] |
+ | B210 master moved over a bit, to allow twin carburetors on LHD car | ||
+ | <br>{{PhotoPost|DSC03837-1_.jpg|160119}} | ||
+ | <br>[{{Post|160119}} Forum: Relocating the master cylinder for LHD cars] | ||
- | M59 formula brake pads | + | = Remote Brake Cylinder = |
- | <br>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=23788 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/23788.jpg] [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=23789 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/23789.jpg] | + | If you are fitting a larger engine or carbs so there is no room for the stock brake cylinder, consider a remote cylinder setup. |
- | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=23790 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/23790.jpg] | + | |
+ | no brake cylinder? | ||
+ | <br>{{Album|381}} | ||
- | === MK63 Solid Rotor === | + | Discussion: [http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=20162&forum=1 Wilwood Pedal Boxes has anyone fitted them to their 1200?] |
- | For stock 240Z solid rotor, and stock 240Z strut. Available from [http://www.courtsyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CP&Category_Code=s30_nismo_z-fia-brake Courtesy Nissan] $700 USD | + | |
- | * 41000-E7201 FIA Caliper RH | + | |
- | * 41010-E7201 FIA Caliper LH | + | |
- | * 99996-E7050 Install kit (hoses, fittings, bolts, washers) | + | |
- | * 41060-RS610 M59S Compound Brake Pads | + | |
- | * 41060-R1120 M2800 compound Brake Pads | + | |
- | For B310, you may need to change the hub. | + | * Nissan c20 van (Vanette) ??? |
+ | * Ford Escort? | ||
+ | * PBR VH44 remote booster | ||
- | === MK63 Ventilated Rotor === | + | {{Album|7036}} {{Album|14942}} |
- | For 20mm thick ventilated rotors | + | |
- | * Calipers (41001-A1281 RH, 41011-A1281 LH) | + | |
- | * Rotor 40206-N3120 vented | + | |
- | * Installation Kit 99996-E7051, which includes: | + | |
- | ** Caliper bolts (4 needed) 41250-RR610, M12X1.25X31.5 | + | |
- | ** Hose Gasket 46237-A4600 (6 needed) $0.38 ea. from B310 | + | |
- | ** Hose bolt 41128-F1800 (2), M10x1.0x26.5 | + | |
- | ** Brake hoses 41205-F1800 RH, 41215-F1800 LH | + | |
- | **: Hoses from Nissan President? | + | |
- | * Rotor Fixing Bolt (8) 01111-00312, $2.22 ea. from B310 | + | |
- | * 102 mm brake pads, 15mm total thick including backing plate | + | |
- | Needed for 240z up to 7/73 | + | == Extended == |
- | * 40202-N3426 | + | Master Cylinder at end of pipe (factory setup) |
+ | See Main Article: [[Brake_Booster_Swaps#Booster_Spacer]] | ||
+ | <br>{{Album|25817}} | ||
- | Needed for B310 strut | + | '''Extended Pushrod''': I had to move brake pump to the front of the engine (no room for carbs), Under air filter goes a metal pipe from brake pedal until brake master cylinder + - 60 cm long |
- | * Hub 40202-A0127 from Datsun 810 (2 needed) $168.65 ea. | + | <br>{{Album|5220}} {{Album|5221}} |
- | Pads | + | == Underdash == |
- | ** 41060-A1281 M59S compound | + | [[LOWTECH]] has a Wilwood pedal box that mount the Master cylinders facing backward under the dash. They're really small and can fit with a little rearranging under the stock dash. Then the reservoirs are remotely mounted on the firewall. |
- | ** 41060-A1282 DS11 compound | + | |
- | ** 41060-F0225 M33S compound | + | |
- | ** 41060-E4622 M2800 compound | + | |
- | === Photos - MK63 === | + | NIS15L has a remote booster and master cylinder under the dash |
+ | <br>{{Album|4857}} | ||
- | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=1407 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/1407.jpg] [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=9436 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/9436.jpg] [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=9585 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/9585.jpg] [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=9591 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/9591.jpg] [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=11729 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/11729.jpg] [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=12044 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/12044.jpg] [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=12253 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/12253.jpg] | + | DatsAndy's [[Remote Clutch Master Cylinder]] |
+ | <br>{{UploadPost|10290_4a39eb84442c9.jpg|259112}} | ||
- | == Wilwood Dynalite Calipers on 280zx Struts == | + | '''Reverse-Mounted Master Cylinder''' |
- | Perhaps the most effective braking system you can get on a 1200 / 120Y / B-210 etc... ( at least as good as the FIA brakes at a much lower cost. ) It's an upgrade that will last the life of the vehicle. | + | |
- | This upgrade requires all the work done to swap in the 280zx struts in addition to a custom caliper adapter. | + | Fitting an under-dash brake master cylinder is sometimes done to LHD 1200s so we can fit dual sidedraft carbs. It is legal in USA (very few states have any kind of mechanical inspection). |
- | Some people have mentioned that some Wilwood calipers do not have dust seals and as such may not be road worthy in some places ( Australia for one! ) I've been looking for an answer to that question. Dynalite calipers don't have dust seals and allegedly don't need them, Dynapro calipers MAY have dust seals, but I can't verify that. | + | As you can see, LHD cars have little room for both the brake cylinder (on left side of engine compartment) when bigger carbs are fitted: |
+ | <br>{{Album|381}} | ||
- | === Benefits: === | + | Take a master cylinder mount bracket from a 510 and weld it to the top of the 1200's steering colum support. Then weld an extension to the top of the brake pedal and makee a rod to connect the master cylinder from the brake pedal. |
- | * 1. Significantly lighter than 280zx calipers. ( any unsprung weight savings are good on those heavy strut assemblies ) | + | |
- | * 2. 4 pistons | + | |
- | * 3. Wide range of pads from street to severe duty race pads without spending any more than regular pads. | + | |
- | * 4. Many people consider the Wilwood caliper to be more reliable than the OEM calipers, not needing rebuilds for years. | + | |
- | * 5. No machining of brake disks to fit them. Once you have them installed all service parts are regular off the shelve parts. | + | |
- | === Disadvantages: === | + | Changing the position of the rod from below pivot point to above changes the direction from pushing out toward front of car to pushing out towards rear. |
- | * 1. Lack of dust seals may be a problem if you need to get upgrades engineered. | + | |
- | * 2. If used on a track car, you'll be put in a class with much more powerful cars. | + | |
- | * 3. 14" or larger wheels needed. | + | |
- | ** Some wheels may require spacers, 14" 280zx and 280zx Turbo wheels have a different offset, so non-turbo wheels may not need spacers. | + | |
- | ** 280zx Turbo wheels may also need a little bit of grinding to clear the caliper, and even then the space between the caliper and wheel spokes may be extremely small, also the nut that holds the caliper to the adapter will have a very small amount of clearance to the brake disk. | + | |
- | * 4. Installation will require removing splash guards from disks, which may cause problems if the upgrade needs to be engineered. | + | Bob's setup |
+ | <br>{{Album|379}} {{Album|380}} | ||
+ | 280zx master cylinder reverse mounted under dash | ||
+ | * A remote fluid reservoir would be easiest (e.g. Datsun F10 style) | ||
+ | * It only take a minute to remove dash for access | ||
- | === Installation Notes: === | + | Sometimes the same is done when fitting large engines or turbo setups which leave no room for the stock master cylinder. |
- | Installation of these calipers is fairly easy. You need to source an adapter to attach the brakes to 280zx struts, look around on 280ZX sites or check ebay. If you're going to this length, you'll want to get some stainless steel flex brake lines, and the proper adapters for them. Also make sure to retain or replace the flex hose support on the strut or you could have engineering issues. The adapter I used in my install required some very thin profile special nuts to attach the caliper to the adapter plate, so keeping a set of spares on hand would be a very good idea. | + | |
- | * Service kits are available for a very reasonable price ( about $10 USD ) | + | For more ideas, see [[Clutch master cylinder]] |
- | * Adapter plates should run about $100 - 200 USD | + | |
- | * Wilwood calipers aren't that expensive... About $130 - 150 USD per caliper vs. $50 USD for an average 280zx caliper. vs $300 USD! for the Nismo MK63 Sumitomo 4 pot caliper. | + | |
- | = Rear Disc Brakes = | + | = Remote Filler = |
- | The stock rear brakes are fairly good, a large (for such a light car) 8" x 1.75 brake shoe. Make sure the brakes and clean and adjusted correctly. Using a performance pad will improve it. | + | To gain clearance on LHD cars with twin carbs -- or with big engines -- use a remote filler setup. |
- | But for coolness sake... read the article [[Rear Disc Brakes]]. | + | {{Album|25395}} |
- | http://www.pitroad-ts.com/A-oldparts/H145-3.jpg | + | filler setup from circa 1976 Datsun F10 |
+ | <br>{{Album|21952}} {{Album|21953}} {{Album|21954}} | ||
- | [[Category:Brake System]] | + | = Brake Bias = |
- | [[Category:Brake Modifications]] | + | So you've changed brake types, now has the front brakes are locking up well before the rears come into play. How can this be cured? |
+ | |||
+ | {{SeeMainArticle!|Brake Proportioning}} | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[Category:Brake Modifications]]{{End}} |
Current revision
The stock 1200 front-disc/rear-drum system was good for 1971. In fact, stopping power was better than most 'muscle cars' of the era. However, fading under repeated hard stops was a problem as these were not ventilated rotors. But compared to modern cars ... well, they don't really compare at all -- even the cheapest new import car has better brakes than the 1973 Datsun 1200.
Contents |
Overview
There are two easy ways to get better brakes. This article will discuss these methods:
- Better brake pads, using premium materials
- Simple brakes swaps requiring no machining
There is also more complicated methods, which allows you to have world-class brakes, as good as any new car. For details see Brake Swaps.
Better Brake Pads
Better brake pads can make a big difference. If you are a racer you know this. But for a street car, if you live in a hilly or mountainous area and your brakes fade, consider new pads.
Smart racers use stock 1200 brakes - but use racing pads.Rallytwit: Rob Walker would know 1200's for sure since he's been racing the them for about 35 years.LOWTECH: Rob Walker, who has one of the fastest road race 1200's around, told me that the stock 1200 calipers with good pads stops his race car easily.
POST B110SSS: Spend the money and put something good in the coupe- Pagid or Mintex 1155's etc and if you can't get them to fit your caliper then put something else on that you can get a good quality pad for.
And if anyone tells you that they are no good on the street thats simply not true - the new generation compounds work just fine from cold. Sure they get much better when hot, but are more than adequate for driving around the streets on.
Brake Booster
A booster will not improve the braking ability of the car. But you may want one so that it is a bit easier to press the brake pedal.
1200 Brakes
1200 brakes work fairly well if in good shape. The drum brakes will stop as quickly as discs -- IF adjusted correctly.
1200 Disc Swap
If your 1200 has all-drum brakes, take note that disc brakes are:
- easier to work on
- More resistant to fading -- safer after repeated stops (they dissipate heat far better)
Swapping 1200 drums for discs is easy. See 1200 Disc Brake Swap.
1200 Disc Upgrade
Replace the stock B110 212 mm rotors with 220 mm rotors. Bolts on, but need an adapter to move the caliper 4 mm farther out. Fits under 12" wheels.
Rotor Nissan 40206-H7500 * A12 powered B210 1976-1978 * A12 powered B310 (including CANADA A12A)
H75 rotor with factory Nissan-Datsun Australia caliper adapter
Big Disc Upgrade
245 mm B310/Stanza rotors (Nissan 40206-U6700) will bolt to the 1200 hub, but requires 13" wheels. These are nearly as big as S13 Brakes (5mm less) and are lighter weight than the S13 Brakes vented disc swap, but not as big as the 258 mm S13 solid Rotor Swap.
B310 brakes use large 245mm rotor (same rotor as A10 Stanza and others)
- Rotors need simple machining (drill 4 new holes)
- Fabricate a spacer ring to change the large 73mm hub reg to 70 mm
- Unbolt the old disc from the 1200 hub, and bolt the large disc on
- Fabricate a caliper adapter to move the caliper out 16 mm
POST zigmondo has been using these with the PBR 120Y caliper, but you could use the standard B310 Japan caliper or the A10 PBR caliper. Just depends on how you fabricate the caliper adapter plate.
Caliper adapter is similar to factory 120Y adapter (left), but spaces the caliper out further. Right: PBR caliper adapter
The 1200 disc brake hub bolts to a rotor with 87 Pitch Circle Diameter. The B310.A14 rotor has 95 PCD. So take the big disc and drill four new holes at 87 PCD.
Any machine shop can fabricate the spacer ring, which is nominally 3 mm wide and 70mm I.D. Take both the new disc and the 1200 disc hub to the machinist for exact measuring.
Spacer ring fitted inside big disc
Wilwood Brakes
Wilwood makes lightweight racing brakes. You can bolt them to the stock 1200 hubs.
- Light alloy hubs
- Extra light thin rotors
- alloy calipers
For racing, light is good. For street, light is good.
Wilwood Dynapro single caliper and Wilwood 10.25" two-piece disc. Uses stock 1200 spindle and stock 1200 hubs -- although he's modified everything else.
Wilwood brakes on stock 1200 hubs & spindles
I finally got these struts on the car! Wow is all I can say! The pedal is rock hard and the car stops ridiculously fast! I haven't done any measured stops yet but the feel is outstanding.
Brake Warning Switch
Don't forget to use a brake warning switch.
Master Cylinder Choice
If you change to all front-discs, you can either use:
- master cylinder and brake-line "splitter" (warning light switch)
- The "tandem" cylinder is recommended (it has two reservoirs)
- IMPORTANT: Don't use a single outlet cylinder. It is less safe as all four brakes can fail at once. A double-outlet cylinder is safer
Moved Master Cylinder
For LHD cars, to make more room for twin carburetors, the master cylinder can be moved farther over.
A small master cylinder, such as from a 1982-1986 Nissan B11 (sentra/sunny/tsuru) can be used to tuck in behind the strut tower.
See POST Relocating the master cylinder for LHD cars
B210 master moved over a bit, to allow twin carburetors on LHD car
POST Forum: Relocating the master cylinder for LHD cars
Remote Brake Cylinder
If you are fitting a larger engine or carbs so there is no room for the stock brake cylinder, consider a remote cylinder setup.
Discussion: Wilwood Pedal Boxes has anyone fitted them to their 1200?
- Nissan c20 van (Vanette) ???
- Ford Escort?
- PBR VH44 remote booster
Extended
Master Cylinder at end of pipe (factory setup)
See Main Article: Brake_Booster_Swaps#Booster_Spacer
Extended Pushrod: I had to move brake pump to the front of the engine (no room for carbs), Under air filter goes a metal pipe from brake pedal until brake master cylinder + - 60 cm long
Underdash
LOWTECH has a Wilwood pedal box that mount the Master cylinders facing backward under the dash. They're really small and can fit with a little rearranging under the stock dash. Then the reservoirs are remotely mounted on the firewall.
NIS15L has a remote booster and master cylinder under the dash
DatsAndy's Remote Clutch Master Cylinder
Reverse-Mounted Master Cylinder
Fitting an under-dash brake master cylinder is sometimes done to LHD 1200s so we can fit dual sidedraft carbs. It is legal in USA (very few states have any kind of mechanical inspection).
As you can see, LHD cars have little room for both the brake cylinder (on left side of engine compartment) when bigger carbs are fitted:
Take a master cylinder mount bracket from a 510 and weld it to the top of the 1200's steering colum support. Then weld an extension to the top of the brake pedal and makee a rod to connect the master cylinder from the brake pedal.
Changing the position of the rod from below pivot point to above changes the direction from pushing out toward front of car to pushing out towards rear.
280zx master cylinder reverse mounted under dash
- A remote fluid reservoir would be easiest (e.g. Datsun F10 style)
- It only take a minute to remove dash for access
Sometimes the same is done when fitting large engines or turbo setups which leave no room for the stock master cylinder.
For more ideas, see Clutch master cylinder
Remote Filler
To gain clearance on LHD cars with twin carbs -- or with big engines -- use a remote filler setup.
filler setup from circa 1976 Datsun F10
Brake Bias
So you've changed brake types, now has the front brakes are locking up well before the rears come into play. How can this be cured?