Revision as of 21:49, 22 January 2012 ddgonzal (Talk | contribs) (->Overview) <- Previous diff |
Current revision ddgonzal (Talk | contribs) (->Underdash) |
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* Better brake pads, using premium materials | * Better brake pads, using premium materials | ||
* Simple brakes swaps requiring no machining | * Simple brakes swaps requiring no machining | ||
- | |||
There is also more complicated methods, which allows you to have world-class brakes, as good as any new car. For details see [[Brake Swaps]]. | There is also more complicated methods, which allows you to have world-class brakes, as good as any new car. For details see [[Brake Swaps]]. | ||
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= Better Brake Pads = | = Better Brake Pads = | ||
Better brake pads can make a big difference. If you are a racer you know this. But for a street car, if you live in a hilly or mountainous area and your brakes fade, consider new pads. | Better brake pads can make a big difference. If you are a racer you know this. But for a street car, if you live in a hilly or mountainous area and your brakes fade, consider new pads. | ||
- | <blockquote><hr>Spend the money and put something good in the coupe- Pagid or Mintex 1155's etc and if you can't get them to fit your caliper then put something else on that you can get a good quality pad for. | ||
- | And if anyone tells you that they are no good on the street thats simply not true - the new generation compounds work just fine from cold. Sure they get much better when hot, but are more than adequate for driving around the streets on. | ||
- | <hr></blockquote> | ||
- | reference: [http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=14163&forum=1 BENDIX ULTIMATE FRONT PADS] | + | Smart racers use stock 1200 brakes - but use racing pads.<blockquote>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=14882 Rallytwit]: Rob Walker would know 1200's for sure since he's been racing the them for about 35 years.<blockquote>LOWTECH: Rob Walker, who has one of the fastest road race 1200's around, told me that the stock 1200 calipers with good pads stops his race car easily.</blockquote></blockquote> |
+ | |||
+ | <blockquote>[{{Post|60324}} B110SSS]: Spend the money and put something good in the coupe- Pagid or Mintex 1155's etc and if you can't get them to fit your caliper then put something else on that you can get a good quality pad for.<br> | ||
+ | <br>And if anyone tells you that they are no good on the street thats simply not true - the new generation compounds work just fine from cold. Sure they get much better when hot, but are more than adequate for driving around the streets on.</blockquote> | ||
+ | |||
+ | {{Album|19532}} | ||
= Brake Booster = | = Brake Booster = | ||
A booster will not improve the braking ability of the car. But you may want one so that it is a bit easier to press the brake pedal. | A booster will not improve the braking ability of the car. But you may want one so that it is a bit easier to press the brake pedal. | ||
- | See main article: [[Brake Booster Swaps]] | + | {{SeeMainArticle!|Brake Booster Swaps}} |
= 1200 Brakes = | = 1200 Brakes = | ||
1200 brakes work fairly well if in good shape. The drum brakes will stop as quickly as discs -- IF adjusted correctly. | 1200 brakes work fairly well if in good shape. The drum brakes will stop as quickly as discs -- IF adjusted correctly. | ||
- | == 1200 Disc == | + | == 1200 Disc Swap == |
If your 1200 has all-drum brakes, take note that '''disc brakes are''': | If your 1200 has all-drum brakes, take note that '''disc brakes are''': | ||
* easier to work on | * easier to work on | ||
* More resistant to fading -- safer after repeated stops (they dissipate heat far better) | * More resistant to fading -- safer after repeated stops (they dissipate heat far better) | ||
- | Swapping 1200 drums for discs is easy if you obtain the entire strut/spring/brake assemblies for both sides. Just unbolt, bolt in the new assembly and bleed the front brakes. | + | Swapping 1200 drums for discs is easy. See [[1200 Disc Brake Swap]]. |
- | == Master Cylinder Choice == | + | == 1200 Disc Upgrade == |
+ | Replace the stock B110 212 mm rotors with 220 mm rotors. Bolts on, but need an adapter to move the caliper 4 mm farther out. Fits under 12" wheels. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Rotor Nissan [[Brakes#Rotor|40206-H7500]] | ||
+ | * A12 powered B210 1976-1978 | ||
+ | * A12 powered B310 (including CANADA A12A) | ||
+ | |||
+ | H75 rotor with factory Nissan-Datsun Australia caliper adapter | ||
+ | <br>{{Photo!|16236_56890bcc88dad_.jpg|Datsun%201200/Parts}} | ||
+ | |||
+ | == Big Disc Upgrade == | ||
+ | 245 mm B310/Stanza rotors (Nissan [[Brakes#Rotors|40206-U6700]]) will bolt to the 1200 hub, but requires 13" wheels. These are nearly as big as [[S13 Brakes]] (5mm less) and are lighter weight than the [[S13 Brakes]] vented disc swap, but not as big as the 258 mm [[280ZX_Brake_Upgrade#S13_Rear_Rotors|S13 solid Rotor Swap]]. | ||
+ | |||
+ | B310 brakes use large 245mm rotor (same rotor as A10 Stanza and [[Brakes#Rotor_Sizes|others]]) | ||
+ | <br>{{Album|21552}} | ||
+ | |||
+ | # Rotors need simple machining (drill 4 new holes) | ||
+ | # Fabricate a spacer ring to change the large 73mm hub reg to 70 mm | ||
+ | # Unbolt the old disc from the 1200 hub, and bolt the large disc on | ||
+ | # Fabricate a caliper adapter to move the caliper out 16 mm | ||
+ | |||
+ | [{{Post|475011}} zigmondo has been using] these with the PBR 120Y caliper, but you could use the standard B310 Japan caliper or the A10 PBR caliper. Just depends on how you fabricate the caliper adapter plate. | ||
+ | |||
+ | {{UploadPost|16236_56890bdf5b6d8.jpg|475011}} {{UploadPost|16236_57e4793f38188.jpg|481412}} | ||
+ | |||
+ | Caliper adapter is similar to factory 120Y adapter (left), but spaces the caliper out further. Right: PBR caliper adapter | ||
+ | <br>{{UploadPost|16236_56890bcc88dad.jpg|475011}} | ||
+ | |||
+ | The 1200 disc brake hub bolts to a rotor with [[Brakes#Rotor|87 Pitch Circle Diameter]]. The [[Brakes#Rotor|B310.A14 rotor]] has 95 PCD. So take the big disc and drill four new holes at 87 PCD. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Any machine shop can fabricate the spacer ring, which is nominally 3 mm wide and 70mm I.D. Take both the new disc and the 1200 disc hub to the machinist for exact measuring. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Spacer ring fitted inside big disc | ||
+ | <br>{{Photo!|16236_56890bcc88dad_.jpg}} | ||
+ | |||
+ | With wheel spacer | ||
+ | <br>{{Album|3052}} | ||
+ | |||
+ | == Wilwood Brakes == | ||
+ | Wilwood makes lightweight racing brakes. You can bolt them to the stock 1200 hubs. | ||
+ | |||
+ | http://wilwood.com | ||
+ | |||
+ | * Light alloy hubs | ||
+ | * Extra light thin rotors | ||
+ | * alloy calipers | ||
+ | |||
+ | For racing, light is good. For street, light is good. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Wilwood Dynapro single caliper and Wilwood 10.25" two-piece disc. Uses stock 1200 spindle and stock 1200 hubs -- although he's modified everything else. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Wilwood brakes on stock 1200 hubs & spindles | ||
+ | <br>{{Album|14882}} {{Album|14883}} | ||
+ | |||
+ | <blockquote>I finally got these struts on the car! Wow is all I can say! The pedal is rock hard and the car stops ridiculously fast! I haven't done any measured stops yet but the feel is outstanding.</blockquote> | ||
+ | |||
+ | = Brake Warning Switch = | ||
+ | Don't forget to use a brake warning switch. | ||
+ | |||
+ | = Master Cylinder Choice = | ||
If you change to all front-discs, you can either use: | If you change to all front-discs, you can either use: | ||
* master cylinder and brake-line "splitter" (warning light switch) | * master cylinder and brake-line "splitter" (warning light switch) | ||
- | *: [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=7663 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/7663.jpg] | + | *: {{Thumb|7663}} |
* The "tandem" cylinder is recommended (it has two reservoirs) | * The "tandem" cylinder is recommended (it has two reservoirs) | ||
* IMPORTANT: Don't use a single outlet cylinder. It is less safe as all four brakes can fail at once. A double-outlet cylinder is safer | * IMPORTANT: Don't use a single outlet cylinder. It is less safe as all four brakes can fail at once. A double-outlet cylinder is safer | ||
*: Alternatively (though not recommended) just remove the check-valve out of the front-feed outlet of the drum-brake master cylinder: | *: Alternatively (though not recommended) just remove the check-valve out of the front-feed outlet of the drum-brake master cylinder: | ||
- | *:* [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=1399 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/1399.jpg] | + | *:* {{Thumb|1399}} |
- | = Brake Warning Switch = | + | = Moved Master Cylinder = |
- | Don't forget to use a brake warning switch. | + | For LHD cars, to make more room for twin carburetors, the master cylinder can be moved farther over. |
- | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=7657 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/7657.jpg] | + | A small master cylinder, such as from a 1982-1986 '''Nissan B11''' (sentra/sunny/tsuru) can be used to tuck in behind the strut tower. |
+ | |||
+ | See [{{Post|160120}} Relocating the master cylinder for LHD cars] | ||
+ | |||
+ | B210 master moved over a bit, to allow twin carburetors on LHD car | ||
+ | <br>{{PhotoPost|DSC03837-1_.jpg|160119}} | ||
+ | <br>[{{Post|160119}} Forum: Relocating the master cylinder for LHD cars] | ||
= Remote Brake Cylinder = | = Remote Brake Cylinder = | ||
If you are fitting a larger engine or carbs so there is no room for the stock brake cylinder, consider a remote cylinder setup. | If you are fitting a larger engine or carbs so there is no room for the stock brake cylinder, consider a remote cylinder setup. | ||
- | <br>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=381 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/381.jpg] no brake cylinder? | + | |
+ | no brake cylinder? | ||
+ | <br>{{Album|381}} | ||
Discussion: [http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=20162&forum=1 Wilwood Pedal Boxes has anyone fitted them to their 1200?] | Discussion: [http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=20162&forum=1 Wilwood Pedal Boxes has anyone fitted them to their 1200?] | ||
Line 55: | Line 123: | ||
* Ford Escort? | * Ford Escort? | ||
* PBR VH44 remote booster | * PBR VH44 remote booster | ||
- | *: [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=7036 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/7036.jpg] | ||
- | = Remote Filler = | + | {{Album|7036}} {{Album|14942}} |
- | To gain clearance on LHD cars with twin carbs, use a remote filler setup from circa 1976 Datsun F10. | + | |
- | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=21952 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/21952.jpg] [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=21953 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/21953.jpg] [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=21954 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/21954.jpg] | + | == Extended == |
+ | Master Cylinder at end of pipe (factory setup) | ||
+ | See Main Article: [[Brake_Booster_Swaps#Booster_Spacer]] | ||
+ | <br>{{Album|25817}} | ||
+ | |||
+ | '''Extended Pushrod''': I had to move brake pump to the front of the engine (no room for carbs), Under air filter goes a metal pipe from brake pedal until brake master cylinder + - 60 cm long | ||
+ | <br>{{Album|5220}} {{Album|5221}} | ||
== Underdash == | == Underdash == | ||
- | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=379 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/379.jpg][http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=380 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/380.jpg][http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=4857 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/4857.jpg] | + | [[LOWTECH]] has a Wilwood pedal box that mount the Master cylinders facing backward under the dash. They're really small and can fit with a little rearranging under the stock dash. Then the reservoirs are remotely mounted on the firewall. |
+ | |||
+ | NIS15L has a remote booster and master cylinder under the dash | ||
+ | <br>{{Album|4857}} | ||
+ | |||
+ | DatsAndy's [[Remote Clutch Master Cylinder]] | ||
+ | <br>{{UploadPost|10290_4a39eb84442c9.jpg|259112}} | ||
+ | |||
+ | '''Reverse-Mounted Master Cylinder''' | ||
- | == Reverse-Mounted Master Cylinder == | ||
Fitting an under-dash brake master cylinder is sometimes done to LHD 1200s so we can fit dual sidedraft carbs. It is legal in USA (very few states have any kind of mechanical inspection). | Fitting an under-dash brake master cylinder is sometimes done to LHD 1200s so we can fit dual sidedraft carbs. It is legal in USA (very few states have any kind of mechanical inspection). | ||
As you can see, LHD cars have little room for both the brake cylinder (on left side of engine compartment) when bigger carbs are fitted: | As you can see, LHD cars have little room for both the brake cylinder (on left side of engine compartment) when bigger carbs are fitted: | ||
- | <br>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=381 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/381.jpg] | + | <br>{{Album|381}} |
- | Take a master cylinder mount from a 510 and weld it to the top of the 1200's steering colum support. Then weld an extension to the top of the brake pedal and makee a rod to connect the master cylinder from the brake pedal. | + | Take a master cylinder mount bracket from a 510 and weld it to the top of the 1200's steering colum support. Then weld an extension to the top of the brake pedal and makee a rod to connect the master cylinder from the brake pedal. |
Changing the position of the rod from below pivot point to above changes the direction from pushing out toward front of car to pushing out towards rear. | Changing the position of the rod from below pivot point to above changes the direction from pushing out toward front of car to pushing out towards rear. | ||
- | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=379 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/379.jpg] [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=380 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/380.jpg] | + | Bob's setup |
+ | <br>{{Album|379}} {{Album|380}} | ||
280zx master cylinder reverse mounted under dash | 280zx master cylinder reverse mounted under dash | ||
* A remote fluid reservoir would be easiest (e.g. Datsun F10 style) | * A remote fluid reservoir would be easiest (e.g. Datsun F10 style) | ||
* It only take a minute to remove dash for access | * It only take a minute to remove dash for access | ||
- | |||
Sometimes the same is done when fitting large engines or turbo setups which leave no room for the stock master cylinder. | Sometimes the same is done when fitting large engines or turbo setups which leave no room for the stock master cylinder. | ||
Line 86: | Line 165: | ||
For more ideas, see [[Clutch master cylinder]] | For more ideas, see [[Clutch master cylinder]] | ||
- | = Brake Bias = | + | = Remote Filler = |
- | So you've changed brake types, now has the front brakes are locking up well before the rears come into play. How can this be cured? | + | To gain clearance on LHD cars with twin carbs -- or with big engines -- use a remote filler setup. |
- | There are options for changing the brake bias: | + | {{Album|25395}} |
- | * Change rear brake wheel cylinders (larger or smaller). Alternate sizes are available from Nissan motorsports. Or from stock applications. For example, the 510 rear cylinders are 7/8, but bolt in place of the stock 1200 13/16 cylinders. Note that 1200s with drum brakes already have 7/8 rears. | + | |
- | * Use an appropriate factory bias valve (aka NP-valve or "proportioning valve"). Note that Datsun 1200s don't use one, while B210 and B310 NP-valves are not part of the brake line "splitter" (brake line warning switch) | + | |
- | * Maybe the easiest would be to buy a brake bias controller valve. | + | |
- | ** These are | + | |
- | available thru your local high performance shop or mail order | + | |
- | thru Jeg's or Summit, etc. for around $50 USD. | + | |
- | ** Some Volvos also have an adjustable valve you could use | + | |
+ | filler setup from circa 1976 Datsun F10 | ||
+ | <br>{{Album|21952}} {{Album|21953}} {{Album|21954}} | ||
- | '''Changing master cylinders'' ''may change pedal feel but will not change bias''. A master with larger diameter cylinder will result in a harder pedal, but less pedal travel. By contrast, a smaller diameter master cylinder will reduce required pedal foot pressure, but will increase pedal travel for a given result. Most Nissan master cylinders from the same era (1971-1982) interchange. You can locate almost any size with a cruise through your local junk yard (sizes are cast on | + | = Brake Bias = |
- | the side of the cylinder). | + | So you've changed brake types, now has the front brakes are locking up well before the rears come into play. How can this be cured? |
- | + | ||
- | Note that B110s did not use a proportioning valve. B310 used one (called NP-Valve). The NP-valve is separate from the brake circuit switch (brake line splitter). It is functionally normally if -- during a 50km/h quick stop -- the rear the wheels lock simultaneously with front wheels, or front wheels lock first. Danger if rear wheels lock first. | + | |
- | + | ||
- | <table border=1 cellspacing=0 cellpadding=2><tr><td>brake cylinders</td><td><b>B110</b></td><td><b>1977 US B210</b></td><td><b>1980 US B310</b> (Disc-AN20)</td><td><b>1980 Canada A12A</b> (Disc-AN18)</td></tr><tr><td>Proportioning valve</td><td>not used</td><td>yes</td><td>1,961 kPa x 0.4 psi</td><td>1,961 kPa x 0.4 psi</td></tr><tr><td>Booster (Master-Vac)</td><td>not used</td><td>?</td><td>M60 6-in diameter 135mm rod length (flange-to-pedal)</td><td>M60 6-in diameter</td></tr><tr><td>Master diameter</td><td>11/16 inch</td><td>3/4 inch</td><td>13/16</td><td>13/16</td></tr><tr><td>Front cylinder diameter</td><td>1.894 inch (drum brakes: 11/16)</td><td>2.012 inch</td><td>2.012 inch</td><td>1.894 inch</td></tr><tr><td>Rotor diameter</td><td>212.5 mm</td><td>245mm</td><td>245mm</td><td>220mm</td></tr><tr><td>Pad (width x length)</td><td>42.5 x 53.1 mm</td><td>41.2 x 63.4 mm</td><td>41.2 x 61.4 mm</td><td>42.0 x 56.8 mm</td></tr><tr><td>Pad thickness</td><td>10.3</td><td>10.0</td><td>10.0</td><td>10.3</td></tr><tr><td>Total front braking area (discs)</td><td>14.0 sq in</td><td>16.2 sq in</td><td>~14.6</td><td>~13.8</td></tr><tr><td>Total front braking area (drums)</td><td>42.3 sq in</td><td>n/a</td><td>n/a</td><td>n/a</td></tr><tr><td>Rear cylinder diameter</td><td>disc brake models: 11/16 inch (all-drum models: 13/16)</td><td>13/16 inch</td><td>13/16</td><td>13/16</td></tr><tr><td>Drum diameter</td><td>8.0 inch</td><td>8.0 inch</td><td>8.0</td><td>8.0</td></tr><tr><td>Drum width</td><td>1.378 inch</td><td>1.378 inch</td><td>1.378</td><td>1.378</td></tr> | + | |
- | <tr><td>Total rear braking area</td><td>42.3 sq in</td><td>42.3 sq in</td><td>42.3</td><td>42.3</td></tr></table> | + | |
- | + | ||
- | + | ||
- | <table><tr><td> | + | |
- | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=8912 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/8912.jpg] | + | |
- | </td><td> | + | |
- | [http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.php?carcode=1210789&parttype=1684 Large Pad] | + | |
- | <br> | + | |
- | B210, B310: Beck/Arnley 0820944 Premium Organic, Beck/Arnley Semi-metallic 0870944, Beck/Arnley "AXXIS Deluxe" Organic 0880944D, RAYBESTOS PGD117 PG Plus Organic, Raybestos Raymold RPD117, Wearever Silver D103, Bendix D103, ACDELCO 17D117 Durastop Organic (18028692) | + | |
- | * 1974 - 1979 CIVIC, 1977 - 1979 200SX (S10), 1979 - 1982 210 (B310), 1978 510, 1975 - 1976 610, 1976 - 1977 710, 1974 - 1978 B210 w/A14 [http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=219&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Brake%20Pad%20%2F%20Shoes%2C%20Front PartsAmerica] | + | |
- | </td></tr></table> | + | |
- | [http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.php?carcode=1208483&parttype=1684 Small Pad] B110, B310 A12A Canada: Beck/Arnley 0820100 Premium Organic, Beck/Arnley "AXXIS Deluxe" Organic, RAYBESTOS PGD104 PG Plus Organic, ACDELCO 17D104 Durastop Organic, Wearever Silver D41, Bendix D104 | + | {{SeeMainArticle!|Brake Proportioning}} |
- | * B110, 1973 - 1974 CIVIC, 1976 - 1978 Datsun F10, B310 Canada A12A | + | |
- | [[Category: Brake Modifications]] | + | [[Category:Brake Modifications]]{{End}} |
Current revision
The stock 1200 front-disc/rear-drum system was good for 1971. In fact, stopping power was better than most 'muscle cars' of the era. However, fading under repeated hard stops was a problem as these were not ventilated rotors. But compared to modern cars ... well, they don't really compare at all -- even the cheapest new import car has better brakes than the 1973 Datsun 1200.
Contents |
Overview
There are two easy ways to get better brakes. This article will discuss these methods:
- Better brake pads, using premium materials
- Simple brakes swaps requiring no machining
There is also more complicated methods, which allows you to have world-class brakes, as good as any new car. For details see Brake Swaps.
Better Brake Pads
Better brake pads can make a big difference. If you are a racer you know this. But for a street car, if you live in a hilly or mountainous area and your brakes fade, consider new pads.
Smart racers use stock 1200 brakes - but use racing pads.Rallytwit: Rob Walker would know 1200's for sure since he's been racing the them for about 35 years.LOWTECH: Rob Walker, who has one of the fastest road race 1200's around, told me that the stock 1200 calipers with good pads stops his race car easily.
POST B110SSS: Spend the money and put something good in the coupe- Pagid or Mintex 1155's etc and if you can't get them to fit your caliper then put something else on that you can get a good quality pad for.
And if anyone tells you that they are no good on the street thats simply not true - the new generation compounds work just fine from cold. Sure they get much better when hot, but are more than adequate for driving around the streets on.
Brake Booster
A booster will not improve the braking ability of the car. But you may want one so that it is a bit easier to press the brake pedal.
1200 Brakes
1200 brakes work fairly well if in good shape. The drum brakes will stop as quickly as discs -- IF adjusted correctly.
1200 Disc Swap
If your 1200 has all-drum brakes, take note that disc brakes are:
- easier to work on
- More resistant to fading -- safer after repeated stops (they dissipate heat far better)
Swapping 1200 drums for discs is easy. See 1200 Disc Brake Swap.
1200 Disc Upgrade
Replace the stock B110 212 mm rotors with 220 mm rotors. Bolts on, but need an adapter to move the caliper 4 mm farther out. Fits under 12" wheels.
Rotor Nissan 40206-H7500 * A12 powered B210 1976-1978 * A12 powered B310 (including CANADA A12A)
H75 rotor with factory Nissan-Datsun Australia caliper adapter
Big Disc Upgrade
245 mm B310/Stanza rotors (Nissan 40206-U6700) will bolt to the 1200 hub, but requires 13" wheels. These are nearly as big as S13 Brakes (5mm less) and are lighter weight than the S13 Brakes vented disc swap, but not as big as the 258 mm S13 solid Rotor Swap.
B310 brakes use large 245mm rotor (same rotor as A10 Stanza and others)
- Rotors need simple machining (drill 4 new holes)
- Fabricate a spacer ring to change the large 73mm hub reg to 70 mm
- Unbolt the old disc from the 1200 hub, and bolt the large disc on
- Fabricate a caliper adapter to move the caliper out 16 mm
POST zigmondo has been using these with the PBR 120Y caliper, but you could use the standard B310 Japan caliper or the A10 PBR caliper. Just depends on how you fabricate the caliper adapter plate.
Caliper adapter is similar to factory 120Y adapter (left), but spaces the caliper out further. Right: PBR caliper adapter
The 1200 disc brake hub bolts to a rotor with 87 Pitch Circle Diameter. The B310.A14 rotor has 95 PCD. So take the big disc and drill four new holes at 87 PCD.
Any machine shop can fabricate the spacer ring, which is nominally 3 mm wide and 70mm I.D. Take both the new disc and the 1200 disc hub to the machinist for exact measuring.
Spacer ring fitted inside big disc
Wilwood Brakes
Wilwood makes lightweight racing brakes. You can bolt them to the stock 1200 hubs.
- Light alloy hubs
- Extra light thin rotors
- alloy calipers
For racing, light is good. For street, light is good.
Wilwood Dynapro single caliper and Wilwood 10.25" two-piece disc. Uses stock 1200 spindle and stock 1200 hubs -- although he's modified everything else.
Wilwood brakes on stock 1200 hubs & spindles
I finally got these struts on the car! Wow is all I can say! The pedal is rock hard and the car stops ridiculously fast! I haven't done any measured stops yet but the feel is outstanding.
Brake Warning Switch
Don't forget to use a brake warning switch.
Master Cylinder Choice
If you change to all front-discs, you can either use:
- master cylinder and brake-line "splitter" (warning light switch)
- The "tandem" cylinder is recommended (it has two reservoirs)
- IMPORTANT: Don't use a single outlet cylinder. It is less safe as all four brakes can fail at once. A double-outlet cylinder is safer
Moved Master Cylinder
For LHD cars, to make more room for twin carburetors, the master cylinder can be moved farther over.
A small master cylinder, such as from a 1982-1986 Nissan B11 (sentra/sunny/tsuru) can be used to tuck in behind the strut tower.
See POST Relocating the master cylinder for LHD cars
B210 master moved over a bit, to allow twin carburetors on LHD car
POST Forum: Relocating the master cylinder for LHD cars
Remote Brake Cylinder
If you are fitting a larger engine or carbs so there is no room for the stock brake cylinder, consider a remote cylinder setup.
Discussion: Wilwood Pedal Boxes has anyone fitted them to their 1200?
- Nissan c20 van (Vanette) ???
- Ford Escort?
- PBR VH44 remote booster
Extended
Master Cylinder at end of pipe (factory setup)
See Main Article: Brake_Booster_Swaps#Booster_Spacer
Extended Pushrod: I had to move brake pump to the front of the engine (no room for carbs), Under air filter goes a metal pipe from brake pedal until brake master cylinder + - 60 cm long
Underdash
LOWTECH has a Wilwood pedal box that mount the Master cylinders facing backward under the dash. They're really small and can fit with a little rearranging under the stock dash. Then the reservoirs are remotely mounted on the firewall.
NIS15L has a remote booster and master cylinder under the dash
DatsAndy's Remote Clutch Master Cylinder
Reverse-Mounted Master Cylinder
Fitting an under-dash brake master cylinder is sometimes done to LHD 1200s so we can fit dual sidedraft carbs. It is legal in USA (very few states have any kind of mechanical inspection).
As you can see, LHD cars have little room for both the brake cylinder (on left side of engine compartment) when bigger carbs are fitted:
Take a master cylinder mount bracket from a 510 and weld it to the top of the 1200's steering colum support. Then weld an extension to the top of the brake pedal and makee a rod to connect the master cylinder from the brake pedal.
Changing the position of the rod from below pivot point to above changes the direction from pushing out toward front of car to pushing out towards rear.
280zx master cylinder reverse mounted under dash
- A remote fluid reservoir would be easiest (e.g. Datsun F10 style)
- It only take a minute to remove dash for access
Sometimes the same is done when fitting large engines or turbo setups which leave no room for the stock master cylinder.
For more ideas, see Clutch master cylinder
Remote Filler
To gain clearance on LHD cars with twin carbs -- or with big engines -- use a remote filler setup.
filler setup from circa 1976 Datsun F10
Brake Bias
So you've changed brake types, now has the front brakes are locking up well before the rears come into play. How can this be cured?