Brake Upgrades

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Category: Brake Modifications

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Revision as of 04:09, 28 August 2007 Ddgonzal (Talk | contribs) (->Rear Disc Brakes) <- Previous diff		Current revision ddgonzal (Talk | contribs) (->Underdash)
Line 1:		Line 1:
-	This article focuses on advanced brakes, requiring machining.	+	The stock 1200 front-disc/rear-drum system was good for 1971. In fact, stopping power was [[Performance|better than most 'muscle cars' of the era]]. However, fading under repeated hard stops was a problem as these were not ventilated rotors. But compared to modern cars ... well, they don't really compare at all -- even the cheapest new import car has better brakes than the 1973 Datsun 1200.
-	For general brake improvements, see [[Brake Swaps]]	+	= Overview =
		+	There are two easy ways to get better brakes. This article will discuss these methods:
		+	* Better brake pads, using premium materials
		+	* Simple brakes swaps requiring no machining
		+	There is also more complicated methods, which allows you to have world-class brakes, as good as any new car. For details see [[Brake Swaps]].
-	= Front Brakes =	+	= Better Brake Pads =
		+	Better brake pads can make a big difference. If you are a racer you know this. But for a street car, if you live in a hilly or mountainous area and your brakes fade, consider new pads.
-	== Using Z-car or 280ZX struts ==	+	Smart racers use stock 1200 brakes - but use racing pads.<blockquote>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=14882 Rallytwit]: Rob Walker would know 1200's for sure since he's been racing the them for about 35 years.<blockquote>LOWTECH: Rob Walker, who has one of the fastest road race 1200's around, told me that the stock 1200 calipers with good pads stops his race car easily.</blockquote></blockquote>
-	'''Z''' means 240Z, 260Z or 280Z (Nissan chassis code S30). The 280ZX (S130) came later.	+
-	See [[280ZX Strut Swap]] for details. This section will focus on even better brake choices, after you've got the Z or ZX struts.	+	<blockquote>[{{Post|60324}} B110SSS]: Spend the money and put something good in the coupe- Pagid or Mintex 1155's etc and if you can't get them to fit your caliper then put something else on that you can get a good quality pad for.<br>
		+	<br>And if anyone tells you that they are no good on the street thats simply not true - the new generation compounds work just fine from cold. Sure they get much better when hot, but are more than adequate for driving around the streets on.</blockquote>
		+	{{Album|19532}}
-	Rotor Comparo	+	= Brake Booster =
-	* 240/260/280Z: 272 mm (10.7") non-ventilated	+	A booster will not improve the braking ability of the car. But you may want one so that it is a bit easier to press the brake pedal.
-	* 280ZX rotors: 254 mm (10.0") ventilated, 18 mm thick, fit Z-car struts	+
-	* 300ZX rotors: 274 mm (10.8") ventilated, 22 mm thick, don't fit 280ZX struts	+
		+	{{SeeMainArticle!|Brake Booster Swaps}}
-	All the Z and ZX 4-bolt hubs will allow interchange of any rotor onto any hub as far as being able to be physically bolted together. In other words, any Z or ZX 4-bolt hub will accept any other Z or ZX brake rotor as far as physically bolting them together. However the rotor thickness and offset are more important. Also any Z or ZX 4 bolt hub will also fit onto the Z spindle too, with the only difference being a very slight displacement of inside seal (the wheel bearings are the same).	+	= 1200 Brakes =
		+	1200 brakes work fairly well if in good shape. The drum brakes will stop as quickly as discs -- IF adjusted correctly.
		+	== 1200 Disc Swap ==
		+	If your 1200 has all-drum brakes, take note that '''disc brakes are''':
		+	* easier to work on
		+	* More resistant to fading -- safer after repeated stops (they dissipate heat far better)
-	300ZX calipers are wider, heavier, and had a different bolt spacing than did the 280ZX or Z calipers, even though the piston and pad area on these calipers was no bigger than the piston and pad area on the 280ZX caliper.	+	Swapping 1200 drums for discs is easy. See [[1200 Disc Brake Swap]].
		+	== 1200 Disc Upgrade ==
		+	Replace the stock B110 212 mm rotors with 220 mm rotors. Bolts on, but need an adapter to move the caliper 4 mm farther out. Fits under 12" wheels.
-	Apparently the stock non-ventilated rotor is close to overheating on a 2800 pound Z-car, but may be fine on a light 1200.	+	Rotor Nissan [[Brakes#Rotor|40206-H7500]]
		+	* A12 powered B210 1976-1978
		+	* A12 powered B310 (including CANADA A12A)
-	It seems the 280ZX strut lets you use a 1" smaller wheel?	+	H75 rotor with factory Nissan-Datsun Australia caliper adapter
		+	<br>{{Photo!|16236_56890bcc88dad_.jpg|Datsun%201200/Parts}}
		+	== Big Disc Upgrade ==
		+	245 mm B310/Stanza rotors (Nissan [[Brakes#Rotors|40206-U6700]]) will bolt to the 1200 hub, but requires 13" wheels. These are nearly as big as [[S13 Brakes]] (5mm less) and are lighter weight than the [[S13 Brakes]] vented disc swap, but not as big as the 258 mm [[280ZX_Brake_Upgrade#S13_Rear_Rotors|S13 solid Rotor Swap]].
-	Adventurous swapsters: notice that 1981 Toyota Cressida caliper bolts to the Z-car strut and has slightly smaller piston and pads. What size rotor does the Cressida have?	+	B310 brakes use large 245mm rotor (same rotor as A10 Stanza and [[Brakes#Rotor_Sizes|others]])
		+	<br>{{Album|21552}}
		+	# Rotors need simple machining (drill 4 new holes)
		+	# Fabricate a spacer ring to change the large 73mm hub reg to 70 mm
		+	# Unbolt the old disc from the 1200 hub, and bolt the large disc on
		+	# Fabricate a caliper adapter to move the caliper out 16 mm
-	=== Ventilated 300ZX Rotor on Z Strut ===	+	[{{Post|475011}} zigmondo has been using] these with the PBR 120Y caliper, but you could use the standard B310 Japan caliper or the A10 PBR caliper. Just depends on how you fabricate the caliper adapter plate.
-	Use 280ZX caliper. as 300ZX calipers don't bolt on, having the bolt spacing farther apart.	+
-	# The caliper has the bolt threads. So drill out the Z-car strut to fit them and put bolts through the strut holes into the caliper	+
-	# Use a spacer on the caliper bolts to center the caliper over the rotor. Use early 240Z hubs. A thick .160" washer, is placed between the caliper and the strut. If using newer hubs, which are thicker, it won't be a bolt on, but probably you'd have to machine the hub.	+
-	# Machine the larger 300ZX rotor down to reduce diamter by about 1/4 inch (it should just come past the brake pads)	+
-	reference: [http://zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/BrakeUpdate.html Z Home]	+	{{UploadPost|16236_56890bdf5b6d8.jpg|475011}} {{UploadPost|16236_57e4793f38188.jpg|481412}}
		+	Caliper adapter is similar to factory 120Y adapter (left), but spaces the caliper out further. Right: PBR caliper adapter
		+	<br>{{UploadPost|16236_56890bcc88dad.jpg|475011}}
-	==MK63 Racing Brakes ==	+	The 1200 disc brake hub bolts to a rotor with [[Brakes#Rotor|87 Pitch Circle Diameter]]. The [[Brakes#Rotor|B310.A14 rotor]] has 95 PCD. So take the big disc and drill four new holes at 87 PCD.
-	Fits Z-car Struts and B310 large (13" wheel) struts. See [[Strut Swaps]].	+
-	http://www.pitroad-ts.com/L-parts/Mk63-nismo.JPG	+	Any machine shop can fabricate the spacer ring, which is nominally 3 mm wide and 70mm I.D. Take both the new disc and the 1200 disc hub to the machinist for exact measuring.
		+	Spacer ring fitted inside big disc
		+	<br>{{Photo!|16236_56890bcc88dad_.jpg}}
-	These were the FIA brake calipers, offered in the Nissan 'Sports Option' parts lists in Japan, and through Datsun Competition in the USA. They were fitted to most of the works 240Z and 260Z rally cars, most of the works circuit racing 432R and 240ZR race cars, as well as many of Skyline, Sunny and Violet race cars.	+	With wheel spacer
		+	<br>{{Album|3052}}
-	* Approximately 50% more pad area than stock 240Z brakes	+	== Wilwood Brakes ==
-	* Require removal of the backing plate. Complete bolt-on.	+	Wilwood makes lightweight racing brakes. You can bolt them to the stock 1200 hubs.
		+	http://wilwood.com
-	* Feral used 261 mm diameter or even 253 mm rotors.	+	* Light alloy hubs
-	* early S110 rear discs and calipers were small and very light and fit under 13's. The discs were same as R31 skyline...discs and calipers came on an E-PS110 Z20E powered with FS5w71B & HB 38	+	* Extra light thin rotors
-	rear axle. It had an SX badge on the rear hatch.	+	* alloy calipers
		+	For racing, light is good. For street, light is good.
-	Nismo MK63 Sumitomo 4 pot calipers	+	Wilwood Dynapro single caliper and Wilwood 10.25" two-piece disc. Uses stock 1200 spindle and stock 1200 hubs -- although he's modified everything else.
-	* 89.9 bolt spacing	+
-	* Has four 41.3 mm pistons	+
-	* Caliper repair kit 41120-68225 fixes all seals for one caliper	+
-	* Replacement piston 41124-68200	+
		+	Wilwood brakes on stock 1200 hubs & spindles
		+	<br>{{Album|14882}} {{Album|14883}}
-	=== MK63 Solid Rotor ===	+	<blockquote>I finally got these struts on the car! Wow is all I can say! The pedal is rock hard and the car stops ridiculously fast! I haven't done any measured stops yet but the feel is outstanding.</blockquote>
-	For stock 240Z solid rotor, and stock 240Z strut. Available from [http://www.courtsyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CP&Category_Code=s30_nismo_z-fia-brake Courtesy Nissan] $700 USD	+
-	* 41000-E7201 FIA Caliper RH	+
-	* 41010-E7201 FIA Caliper LH	+
-	* 99996-E7050 Install kit (hoses, fittings, bolts, washers)	+
-	* 41060-RS610 M59S Compound Brake Pads	+
-	* 41060-R1120 M2800 compound Brake Pads	+
-	For B310, you may need to change the hub.	+	= Brake Warning Switch =
		+	Don't forget to use a brake warning switch.
-	=== MK63 Ventilated Rotor ===	+	= Master Cylinder Choice =
-	For 20mm thick ventilated rotors	+	If you change to all front-discs, you can either use:
-	* Calipers (41001-A1281 RH, 41011-A1281 LH)	+	* master cylinder and brake-line "splitter" (warning light switch)
-	* Rotor 40206-N3120 vented	+	*: {{Thumb|7663}}
-	* Installation Kit 99996-E7051, which includes:	+	* The "tandem" cylinder is recommended (it has two reservoirs)
-	** Caliper bolts (4 needed) 41250-RR610, M12X1.25X31.5	+	* IMPORTANT: Don't use a single outlet cylinder. It is less safe as all four brakes can fail at once. A double-outlet cylinder is safer
-	** Hose Gasket 46237-A4600 (6 needed) $0.38 ea. from B310	+	*: Alternatively (though not recommended) just remove the check-valve out of the front-feed outlet of the drum-brake master cylinder:
-	** Hose bolt 41128-F1800 (2), M10x1.0x26.5	+	*:* {{Thumb|1399}}
-	** Brake hoses 41205-F1800 RH, 41215-F1800 LH	+
-	**: Hoses from Nissan President?	+
-	* Rotor Fixing Bolt (8) 01111-00312, $2.22 ea. from B310	+
-	* 102 mm brake pads, 15mm total thick including backing plate	+
-	Needed for 240z up to 7/73	+	= Moved Master Cylinder =
-	* 40202-N3426	+	For LHD cars, to make more room for twin carburetors, the master cylinder can be moved farther over.
-	Needed for B310 strut	+	A small master cylinder, such as from a 1982-1986 '''Nissan B11''' (sentra/sunny/tsuru) can be used to tuck in behind the strut tower.
-	* Hub 40202-A0127 from Datsun 810 (2 needed) $168.65 ea.	+
-	Pads	+	See [{{Post|160120}} Relocating the master cylinder for LHD cars]
-	** 41060-A1281 M59S compound	+
-	** 41060-A1282 DS11 compound	+
-	** 41060-F0225 M33S compound	+
-	** 41060-E4622 M2800 compound	+
-	= Rear Disc Brakes =	+	B210 master moved over a bit, to allow twin carburetors on LHD car
-	The stock rear brakes are fairly good, a large (for such a light car) 8" x 1.75 brake shoe. Make sure the brakes and clean and adjusted correctly. Using a performance pad will improve it.	+	<br>{{PhotoPost|DSC03837-1_.jpg|160119}}
		+	<br>[{{Post|160119}} Forum: Relocating the master cylinder for LHD cars]
-	But for coolness sake... read on.	+	= Remote Brake Cylinder =
		+	If you are fitting a larger engine or carbs so there is no room for the stock brake cylinder, consider a remote cylinder setup.
		+	no brake cylinder?
		+	<br>{{Album|381}}
-	[http://translate.ocn.ne.jp/LUCOCN/c3/hm.cgi/http%3a//www.pitroad-ts.com/A-parts-2/braket-page.htm?SLANG=ja&TLANG=en&XTYPE=0 Pitroad rear disc adapters for B110]	+	Discussion: [http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=20162&forum=1 Wilwood Pedal Boxes has anyone fitted them to their 1200?]
-	* Uses late model S130 (280ZX) caliper and rotor (I think it says it uses Skyline HR30 adapters)	+
-	http://www.pitroad-ts.com/A-oldparts/H145-3.jpg	+
-	<blockquote><hr>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=10735&forum=1&start=80 Andy:] The Pitroad rear disk brake kit only includes the brackets, E-brake cables, axle sleeve thingys, clips, rubber brake hoses, and axle bolts. You supply the calipers, pads, and rotors from an 82-83 280ZX, as well as new oil seals for the axles, wheel bearings, etc. It's pretty straight forward, you have to pull off the old drum brake assemblies and put on their new bracket just before you put the new wheel bearings in. You do have to drill two really small holes on the E brake cable holder, but other than that it's really easy.<hr></blockquote>	+
		+	* Nissan c20 van (Vanette) ???
		+	* Ford Escort?
		+	* PBR VH44 remote booster
-	In general, 1982 280ZX and 300ZX has a smaller rear caliper with larger pads than the early (1979-1981) 280ZX. The offset of the early vs. late caliper is quite different.	+	{{Album|7036}} {{Album|14942}}
		+	== Extended ==
		+	Master Cylinder at end of pipe (factory setup)
		+	See Main Article: [[Brake_Booster_Swaps#Booster_Spacer]]
		+	<br>{{Album|25817}}
-	82-84 Maxima use a conversion plate to bolt a rotor to drum-brake rear struts. This might be useful in a swap. Details: [http://zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/BrakeUpdate.html Z Home]	+	'''Extended Pushrod''': I had to move brake pump to the front of the engine (no room for carbs), Under air filter goes a metal pipe from brake pedal until brake master cylinder + - 60 cm long
		+	<br>{{Album|5220}} {{Album|5221}}
		+	== Underdash ==
		+	[[LOWTECH]] has a Wilwood pedal box that mount the Master cylinders facing backward under the dash. They're really small and can fit with a little rearranging under the stock dash. Then the reservoirs are remotely mounted on the firewall.
-	[[Category:Brake System]]	+	NIS15L has a remote booster and master cylinder under the dash
		+	<br>{{Album|4857}}
		+
		+	DatsAndy's [[Remote Clutch Master Cylinder]]
		+	<br>{{UploadPost|10290_4a39eb84442c9.jpg|259112}}
		+
		+	'''Reverse-Mounted Master Cylinder'''
		+
		+	Fitting an under-dash brake master cylinder is sometimes done to LHD 1200s so we can fit dual sidedraft carbs. It is legal in USA (very few states have any kind of mechanical inspection).
		+
		+	As you can see, LHD cars have little room for both the brake cylinder (on left side of engine compartment) when bigger carbs are fitted:
		+	<br>{{Album|381}}
		+
		+	Take a master cylinder mount bracket from a 510 and weld it to the top of the 1200's steering colum support. Then weld an extension to the top of the brake pedal and makee a rod to connect the master cylinder from the brake pedal.
		+
		+	Changing the position of the rod from below pivot point to above changes the direction from pushing out toward front of car to pushing out towards rear.
		+
		+	Bob's setup
		+	<br>{{Album|379}} {{Album|380}}
		+
		+	280zx master cylinder reverse mounted under dash
		+	* A remote fluid reservoir would be easiest (e.g. Datsun F10 style)
		+	* It only take a minute to remove dash for access
		+
		+	Sometimes the same is done when fitting large engines or turbo setups which leave no room for the stock master cylinder.
		+
		+	For more ideas, see [[Clutch master cylinder]]
		+
		+	= Remote Filler =
		+	To gain clearance on LHD cars with twin carbs -- or with big engines -- use a remote filler setup.
		+
		+	{{Album|25395}}
		+
		+	filler setup from circa 1976 Datsun F10
		+	<br>{{Album|21952}} {{Album|21953}} {{Album|21954}}
		+
		+	= Brake Bias =
		+	So you've changed brake types, now has the front brakes are locking up well before the rears come into play. How can this be cured?
		+
		+	{{SeeMainArticle!|Brake Proportioning}}
		+
		+	[[Category:Brake Modifications]]{{End}}

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Current revision

The stock 1200 front-disc/rear-drum system was good for 1971. In fact, stopping power was better than most 'muscle cars' of the era. However, fading under repeated hard stops was a problem as these were not ventilated rotors. But compared to modern cars ... well, they don't really compare at all -- even the cheapest new import car has better brakes than the 1973 Datsun 1200.

Contents 1 Overview 2 Better Brake Pads 3 Brake Booster 4 1200 Brakes 4.1 1200 Disc Swap 4.2 1200 Disc Upgrade 4.3 Big Disc Upgrade 4.4 Wilwood Brakes 5 Brake Warning Switch 6 Master Cylinder Choice 7 Moved Master Cylinder 8 Remote Brake Cylinder 8.1 Extended 8.2 Underdash 9 Remote Filler 10 Brake Bias

Overview

There are two easy ways to get better brakes. This article will discuss these methods:

• Better brake pads, using premium materials
• Simple brakes swaps requiring no machining

There is also more complicated methods, which allows you to have world-class brakes, as good as any new car. For details see Brake Swaps.

Better Brake Pads

Better brake pads can make a big difference. If you are a racer you know this. But for a street car, if you live in a hilly or mountainous area and your brakes fade, consider new pads.

Smart racers use stock 1200 brakes - but use racing pads.

Rallytwit: Rob Walker would know 1200's for sure since he's been racing the them for about 35 years.

LOWTECH: Rob Walker, who has one of the fastest road race 1200's around, told me that the stock 1200 calipers with good pads stops his race car easily.

^POST B110SSS: Spend the money and put something good in the coupe- Pagid or Mintex 1155's etc and if you can't get them to fit your caliper then put something else on that you can get a good quality pad for.

And if anyone tells you that they are no good on the street thats simply not true - the new generation compounds work just fine from cold. Sure they get much better when hot, but are more than adequate for driving around the streets on.

Album 19532

Brake Booster

A booster will not improve the braking ability of the car. But you may want one so that it is a bit easier to press the brake pedal.

1200 Brakes

1200 brakes work fairly well if in good shape. The drum brakes will stop as quickly as discs -- IF adjusted correctly.

1200 Disc Swap

If your 1200 has all-drum brakes, take note that disc brakes are:

• easier to work on
• More resistant to fading -- safer after repeated stops (they dissipate heat far better)

Swapping 1200 drums for discs is easy. See 1200 Disc Brake Swap.

1200 Disc Upgrade

Replace the stock B110 212 mm rotors with 220 mm rotors. Bolts on, but need an adapter to move the caliper 4 mm farther out. Fits under 12" wheels.

Rotor Nissan 40206-H7500
* A12 powered B210 1976-1978
* A12 powered B310 (including CANADA A12A)

H75 rotor with factory Nissan-Datsun Australia caliper adapter

Big Disc Upgrade

245 mm B310/Stanza rotors (Nissan 40206-U6700) will bolt to the 1200 hub, but requires 13" wheels. These are nearly as big as S13 Brakes (5mm less) and are lighter weight than the S13 Brakes vented disc swap, but not as big as the 258 mm S13 solid Rotor Swap.

B310 brakes use large 245mm rotor (same rotor as A10 Stanza and others)
Album 21552

1. Rotors need simple machining (drill 4 new holes)
2. Fabricate a spacer ring to change the large 73mm hub reg to 70 mm
3. Unbolt the old disc from the 1200 hub, and bolt the large disc on
4. Fabricate a caliper adapter to move the caliper out 16 mm

^POST zigmondo has been using these with the PBR 120Y caliper, but you could use the standard B310 Japan caliper or the A10 PBR caliper. Just depends on how you fabricate the caliper adapter plate.

Post 475011 Post 481412

Caliper adapter is similar to factory 120Y adapter (left), but spaces the caliper out further. Right: PBR caliper adapter
Post 475011

The 1200 disc brake hub bolts to a rotor with 87 Pitch Circle Diameter. The B310.A14 rotor has 95 PCD. So take the big disc and drill four new holes at 87 PCD.

Any machine shop can fabricate the spacer ring, which is nominally 3 mm wide and 70mm I.D. Take both the new disc and the 1200 disc hub to the machinist for exact measuring.

Spacer ring fitted inside big disc

With wheel spacer
Album 3052

Wilwood Brakes

Wilwood makes lightweight racing brakes. You can bolt them to the stock 1200 hubs.

http://wilwood.com

• Light alloy hubs
• Extra light thin rotors
• alloy calipers

For racing, light is good. For street, light is good.

Wilwood Dynapro single caliper and Wilwood 10.25" two-piece disc. Uses stock 1200 spindle and stock 1200 hubs -- although he's modified everything else.

Wilwood brakes on stock 1200 hubs & spindles
Album 14882 Album 14883

I finally got these struts on the car! Wow is all I can say! The pedal is rock hard and the car stops ridiculously fast! I haven't done any measured stops yet but the feel is outstanding.

Brake Warning Switch

Don't forget to use a brake warning switch.

Master Cylinder Choice

If you change to all front-discs, you can either use:

• master cylinder and brake-line "splitter" (warning light switch)

  Album click to view

• The "tandem" cylinder is recommended (it has two reservoirs)
• IMPORTANT: Don't use a single outlet cylinder. It is less safe as all four brakes can fail at once. A double-outlet cylinder is safer

  Alternatively (though not recommended) just remove the check-valve out of the front-feed outlet of the drum-brake master cylinder:

  • Album click to view

Moved Master Cylinder

For LHD cars, to make more room for twin carburetors, the master cylinder can be moved farther over.

A small master cylinder, such as from a 1982-1986 Nissan B11 (sentra/sunny/tsuru) can be used to tuck in behind the strut tower.

See POST Relocating the master cylinder for LHD cars

B210 master moved over a bit, to allow twin carburetors on LHD car
Post click for topic
^POST Forum: Relocating the master cylinder for LHD cars

Remote Brake Cylinder

If you are fitting a larger engine or carbs so there is no room for the stock brake cylinder, consider a remote cylinder setup.

no brake cylinder?
Album 381

Discussion: Wilwood Pedal Boxes has anyone fitted them to their 1200?

• Nissan c20 van (Vanette) ???
• Ford Escort?
• PBR VH44 remote booster

Album 7036 Album 14942

Extended

Master Cylinder at end of pipe (factory setup)

 See Main Article: Brake_Booster_Swaps#Booster_Spacer

Album 25817

Extended Pushrod: I had to move brake pump to the front of the engine (no room for carbs), Under air filter goes a metal pipe from brake pedal until brake master cylinder + - 60 cm long
Album 5220 Album 5221

Underdash

LOWTECH has a Wilwood pedal box that mount the Master cylinders facing backward under the dash. They're really small and can fit with a little rearranging under the stock dash. Then the reservoirs are remotely mounted on the firewall.

NIS15L has a remote booster and master cylinder under the dash
Album 4857

DatsAndy's Remote Clutch Master Cylinder
Post 259112

Reverse-Mounted Master Cylinder

Fitting an under-dash brake master cylinder is sometimes done to LHD 1200s so we can fit dual sidedraft carbs. It is legal in USA (very few states have any kind of mechanical inspection).

As you can see, LHD cars have little room for both the brake cylinder (on left side of engine compartment) when bigger carbs are fitted:
Album 381

Take a master cylinder mount bracket from a 510 and weld it to the top of the 1200's steering colum support. Then weld an extension to the top of the brake pedal and makee a rod to connect the master cylinder from the brake pedal.

Changing the position of the rod from below pivot point to above changes the direction from pushing out toward front of car to pushing out towards rear.

Bob's setup
Album 379 Album 380

280zx master cylinder reverse mounted under dash

• A remote fluid reservoir would be easiest (e.g. Datsun F10 style)
• It only take a minute to remove dash for access

Sometimes the same is done when fitting large engines or turbo setups which leave no room for the stock master cylinder.

For more ideas, see Clutch master cylinder

Remote Filler

To gain clearance on LHD cars with twin carbs -- or with big engines -- use a remote filler setup.

Album 25395

filler setup from circa 1976 Datsun F10
Album 21952 Album 21953 Album 21954

Brake Bias

So you've changed brake types, now has the front brakes are locking up well before the rears come into play. How can this be cured?

 

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